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If you're a veteran drinker, you probably remember a time when the concept of "strong beer" was encompassed in a single word: Brador. That deep-gold Molson brew virtually defined beer above 5 per cent alcohol for Canadians who came of legal drinking age in the 1970s and early 1980s.

Today, there's almost no end to the possibilities when it comes to strong beers, from malty and rich "winter warmers," many of which recently became available at the Liquor Control Board of Ontario as part of a special winter release, to locally brewed, Belgian-style ales such as those produced by Quebecois craft breweries, and the hoppy and potent "double" India Pale Ales favoured in the west.

Although it's difficult to pinpoint when extra-strength beers became more than just higher-alcohol versions of familiar styles, one of the vanguards of the movement is the Belgian Trappist ale Chimay. Fermented to 7 per cent alcohol, the dark and spicy brew was among the first unconventional beers to be imported to Canada, and for many it was an introduction to a drink that wasn't just strong, but also rich and full of flavour.

The key to Chimay's success - and others like it - is the balance of flavours and integration of alcohol, without which a strong brew is essentially just harsh alcohol layered over a vaguely beery taste.

Perhaps because of their nation's legendarily gloomy weather - Brussels suffers through more days of rain a year than London or Vancouver - Belgians are notorious producers, and consumers, of strong beer. In addition to the three versions of Chimay and all their Trappist kin, Belgium offers a wealth of higher-alcohol ales, including the mass-produced 6.5 per cent alcohol Leffe Brune, the golden, 8.5 per cent alcohol "Poire William of the beer world" Duvel, and the sweet, malty 10.5 per cent alcohol Gulden Draak.

A noteworthy trait of a Belgian strong ale, and a key to its gastronomic credentials, is an ability to harmonize with food. Chimay Grande Réserve pairs beautifully with a nice striploin, for example, while Rochefort 8 makes a delicious match for chocolate cake.

Of course, Belgians aren't the only people who like their beer strong. Scottish brewers have long been purveyors of the sweet, treacly potations known as Scotch ales, which generally weigh in between 7 per cent and 8.5 per cent alcohol and, because of their butterscotch sweetness, often make excellent companions to desserts. Some examples include Traquair House Ale, arguably the classic of the style, and the more molasses-like McEwan's Scotch Ale.

The English are no slouches, either, having invented two classically strong styles of ale: the 10 per cent alcohol (or greater) barley wine and the equally strong Imperial stout. The former is a soothing mix of malt and bitter hop, seldom seen in Canada, although occasionally available through specialty beer bars (Mill Street Brewery in Toronto produces a seasonal, vintage-dated Barley Wine). The latter is an inky, roasty, almost oily seduction, lately seen in some parts of the country in the form of Samuel Smith's Imperial Stout.

On the lager side of the ledger, monastic Bavarian brewers can be credited with creating, centuries ago, doppelbock, or "double" bock beer, a drink high in nutritional value that was originally meant for consumption during prolonged fasting periods. Today, these dark beers include the classic and widely available Paulaner Salvator.

Even our neighbours to the south have taken to the creation of more potent ales and lagers, to the extent that the strongest beer in the world today, the Samuel Adams Utopias at an astonishing 27 per cent alcohol, is brewed in Boston. Unlike the other beers mentioned here (which are available in various provinces), Utopias is harder to get. It's not exported, and if you can find it stateside, a 26-ounce bottle will likely cost more than $150.

And Canadian brewers? There are stellar examples of well-rounded and complex strong beers appearing in virtually every province, such as Halifax's Garrison Imperial Pale Ale, the 6.9 per cent alcohol drink just crowned beer of the year at the Canadian Brewing Awards. Others to look out for: McNally's Winter Spice Ale from Calgary's Big Rock Brewery and the bitter, fruity depth of Amnesiac IPA from Phillips Brewing of Victoria. Each one is a testament to the fact that there's a whole lot more to strong beer than just alcohol.

Tasting notes

Paulaner Salvator Doppelbock

Germany, 7.5 per cent alcohol; $2.10/330ml bottle in Ontario, $2.30/330ml bottle in Quebec

Said to be the original doppelbock, this soothing beer is caramelly and toffee-ish, with just a hint of orange, yet with the leaner, more crisp and curiously refreshing character you would expect from a beer of the lager family.

McEwan's Scotch Ale

Scotland, 8 per cent alcohol; $13.05/six-pack in Ontario, $15.05/six-pack in B.C.

Scottish ales are traditionally malty, as hops don't grow in the colder north of Britain, and this is a prime illustration of that fact. Rich and rounded, with a treacly and almost cloying side, this is a fine ale to serve with dessert, or as dessert.

Chimay Grande Réserve

Belgium, 9 per cent alcohol; $4/330 ml bottle in B.C.,

$10.30/750ml bottle in Quebec

From the largest and most famous of the seven Trappist monastery breweries comes this full and big-bodied treat, with a character that approaches winy and a gentle spiciness throughout. As fine with a steak as it is as a nightcap.

Koningshoeven Quadrupel Trappist Ale

The Netherlands, 10 per cent alcohol; $7.25/75 ml bottle in Ontario

Malty, thy name is Quadrupel! This Dutch ale, from the Trappist monastery sometimes known as La Trappe, is big in so many ways: from soothing strength to indulgent and chocolaty malt, and an abundance of fruity notes, including figs, dates and candied red apple. Sip it in front of a roaring fire on a wintry evening.

Rogue Dead Guy Ale

United States, 6.5 per cent alcohol; $15.55/six-pack in Ontario, $7.15/650ml bottle in B.C.

From a brewery not known for subtlety comes this beer with a spicy hop, citrus aroma and full and fruity-bitter body. A lingering spicy-bitter finish completes the picture.

McNally's Winter Spice Ale

Canada, 6 per cent alcohol; $13.95/four bottle and two glass gift pack in B.C., Saskatchewan and Manitoba, expected $13.50 to $15/gift pack in Alberta

There's ample cinnamon and nutmeg on the nose of this modest but strong winter brew, but not so much that it interferes with the softly fruity, faintly gingery body. A pleasant sipping beer or complement to baked ham.

Stephen Beaumont