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And the winner is...

From Wednesday's Globe and Mail

It's Oscar time again, and as usual party hosts are gearing up.

It is difficult to say whether the night is going to be all glitz and glamour and the typical excess, or whether we are going to get a more subdued experience, given the current economy. But there will be parties, that you can be sure of.

I must confess that I tend to get bored with award ceremonies — and I don't have much use for the "who are you wearing?" deal. My wife seems to be quite taken with it all, but I'd rather be cooking.

Usually I learn about the Academy Awards because of the coverage before and after the event. On many occasions I have seen behind-the-scenes images of Wolfgang Puck or some other celebrity chef preparing delicious-looking hors d'oeuvres for the thousands of guests at one party or another. All the lavish shots do make me wonder: What would I do as host of an Oscar bash?

Here is the answer.

The glamour of Hollywood is an obvious theme for the night. You definitely want to use the evening as a mental getaway. Let loose and use that special set of dinnerware. Polish the crystal and the silver. Put on that great formal suit or dress you never wear (just make sure the food is ready before you get all spiffed up).

I prefer to serve buffet-style at this kind of event; it makes it easier for guests to gather around the TV.

It's important that the food be in small pieces — bite-sized or tiny enough to be eaten easily with only a small fork or spoon (chop sticks are wonderful here).

Along with some premium chips (perhaps homemade) and some classic dips, here are some of the dishes I would serve to my guests: shrimp cocktail ceviche-style, rare Kobe beef on truffled potato croquette, rolled Mediterranean sea bass and salad rolls with blood orange yogurt vinaigrette.

That's assuming they're not on any silly Hollywood-style diets, of course.

SEARED KOBE BEEF ON TRUFFLED POTATO CROQUETTES

Ingredients

1 16-ounce Kobe beef strip loin

Freshly ground pepper

Salt to taste

1/2 cup sour cream

3 tablespoons chives, finely chopped, divided

1 lemon

Two pounds potatoes

6 egg yolks

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons black truffle purée

1 cup white flour

1 cup egg whites, lightly beaten

2 cups panko or other bread crumbs

Olive oil

Method

Bring the strip loin to room temperature. Season with salt and pepper. Sear in a skillet over high heat for four minutes each side. Remove from pan and wrap immediately in foil. Keep warm until needed.

Mix sour cream and one tablespoon chives with pepper, salt and a squeeze of lemon juice. Set aside until needed.

Peel and wash potatoes. Boil them in a large amount of salted water until tender. Put them through a ricer (do not use motorized equipment).

Add egg yolks, Parmesan, two tablespoons chives and truffle purée to the potatoes while they are still warm. Shape the mixture into cylinders 2 inches long and 1/2-inch in diameter. Refrigerate for one hour. Dredge the croquettes in flour first and then the egg whites, then roll in the bread crumbs.

Fry the croquettes in about 1 inch of olive oil at 160 F, being careful not to break them. Place each one on parchment paper to drain the excess oil.

To serve: Cut the beef in as many slices as you can. Place slices on each croquette. Top with the sour cream mixture and flaked sea salt, if desired.

Serves 4.

INVOLTINI DI BRANZINO

Ingredients

8 fillets Mediterranean sea bass (a.k.a. branzino)

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons sun-dried tomato paste

1 tablespoon capers, finely chopped

3 tablespoons black olive paste

2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped

Dash of oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, canned

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