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B.C. trans-fat ban will cost restaurant owners

From Tuesday's Globe and Mail

Order a plate of French fries in British Columbia later this year and be comforted by the fact they contain no trans fats.

However, fewer restaurants may be able to afford to cook them.

It's a grim picture being painted by restaurant owners and industry members who predict that the province's decision to restrict trans fats in restaurant food will mean major problems for businesses struggling to stay afloat during the recession.

The provincial government announced new restrictions on Friday to limit trans fats, which have been linked to a higher incidence of heart disease and other health problems, in all food prepared and served in B.C. restaurants, cafeterias, bakeries, delis, schools and health-care and educational institutions.

The rules, which take effect Sept. 30, will make B.C. the first province in Canada to regulate the use of trans fats.

Many restaurants and food manufacturers have relied on trans fats for decades, in large part because they're generally much cheaper than vegetable-based oils and have a longer shelf life. Although some trans fats occur naturally in animals, the majority are produced industrially.

While the backlash against trans fats has been growing for years, and cities such as Calgary have already moved to restrict their use, the health concerns associated with the artery-clogging fats are at risk of taking a backseat to more pressing concerns over the economy.

That means Canadian restaurants fighting to make ends meet may be hesitant to voluntarily switch to more expensive vegetable oils as a way of appeasing health concerns.

In B.C., however, restaurant owners have no choice. Those who have already been struggling with fewer customers and soaring food prices are growing concerned that switching to healthier, more expensive oils could hurt business even more.

"It's not the best time to do it," said Alex Rotherham, executive chef at Darby's Pub in Vancouver. "There's so many independent places. I know for a fact ... their sales each day are what's paying their bills. If their costs go up a little bit, they're in trouble."

Mr. Rotherham said his pub actually made the switch away from trans fats about a year ago amid concerns over their effect on health. But now, he's worried prices of canola and other vegetable-based oils that are healthier than the partly hydrogenated oils that contain trans fats will spike due to increased demand.

"Is there going to be enough supply to meet that demand?" he said.

Mr. Rotherham said the price of canola oil jumped last year when Calgary's trans fat ban took effect. Now, the price has come down significantly, but he fears another increase is on the horizon.

Despite the economic downswing, business at Darby's Pub has been steady, which means it is well positioned to handle potential increases in the cost of oil, Mr. Rotherham said.

But at other restaurants there is fear the changes could seriously harm business.

"It's a huge cost," said Tasha Inman, owner of the Westwood Sports Pub in Prince George. "With [a] struggling business, it's hard to pay an extra 350 bucks a month for oil."

Ms. Inman, who has been running the business since last summer, said she plans on using oils that contain trans fats until the new restrictions take effect. She's aware they're bad for health, but said that in tough times like these she has to save every dollar she can.

"I wouldn't mind doing [it for the] the health factor as long as it was within the means of cost," she said.

Mary Polak, B.C.'s minister of Healthy Living and Sport, said she doesn't think moving away from trans fats will put anyone out of business.

She added that the health benefits more than justify the decision to go forward with the new rules, particularly as the province prepares to host the 2010 Olympic games.

"We don't see this as something that would be prohibitive," Ms. Polak said. "We have to remember that every moment we wait, someone else is being impacted by trans fat."

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