With today's renewed interest in craftsmanship and tradition, Canadian-born brothers Ben and Doug Burkman are right on schedule. Their new label, Burkman Bros., is getting props for its cozy personal feel and keen attention to detail.
Raised in London, Ont., and educated in Toronto (Doug studied fashion at George Brown College, Ben majored in arts at York University), the brothers cut their teeth designing clothes for the Gap.
Their debut collection of subtly sexy, vintage-preppy basics has been picked up by a select group of U.S. and Japanese retailers this spring and will move into Canada come fall. Add to that their recession-friendly pricing (nothing is above $200) and a recent profile in GQ, and the Burkmans seem well-launched.
While Ben lives in L.A. and Doug in New York, Globe Style managed to catch up with them at their studio in New York's Chelsea district.
You seem so comfortable modelling your line; was it something you created primarily for yourselves?
Ben: I think the line is a reflection of us and our lifestyle. We're really inspired by American vintage, our travels, Japanese pop art, and there are little hints of our inspirations in a lot of the collection.
Doug: We're definitely the starting point; the first question is would we wear it? As the business grows we want to be a little more all-encompassing, but everything will have our aesthetic.
The collection has been described as east meets west; what does that means to you?
Ben: It's a reflection of the dichotomy of east meets west, it's American preppy, which is the west, mixed with our travels to the east. For those who are more local to the U.S. or Canada, there is both an east coast preppy and a west coast beachy California vibe.
Aside from the Hindi writing on your hang tag and the traditionally-loomed madras you use, how has the eastern influence made its way into your pieces?
Ben: We spent last December travelling around Burma, where the men wear skirt-like garments called lungis.
We bought one in the market that was an amazing embroidered vintage style and it became the inspiration for our Burmese dobby short with oxford lining.
It feels really new, it's super soft, it has these elements that are foreign and interesting that you may not be able to pinpoint, yet still seems like something you could buy in Nantucket.
The collection features faux-personal touches such as name tags and woven-bracelet hang tags. What other details set the Burkman Bros. apart?
Ben: All of our hardware is matte black to imply a vintage military finish and all of our shorts are all fully lined. For example, we have a white sailcloth canvas short lined throughout with our buttery soft blue washed oxford…
Doug: You can go commando!
Ben: The great thing about this short is you can wear it rolled up and give a hint of the blue oxford.
In the spring collection, a lot of the influence is from hot-weather countries. How will this translate into your fall/winter collection?
Doug: Dean and Dan [Caten, the brothers behind the label Dsquared2] have taken ownership of the Canadian thing, but we're inspired by our many trips to Asia, which we mesh together with our own strong sense of Canadiana.
Ben: During the design process we kept discussing Cougar boots, those caramel leather boots with orange lining.
I practically lived in them as a kid. If only we were big enough for a designer collaboration.
Doug: We visited boys' academies in Bombay, Calcutta and New Delhi. These schools have a strong British heritage that, combined with an eyedropper of the exotic, provides our look for fall.
Speaking of Dean and Dan, you've also been mentioned along with those other Canadian designers, denim guys Chip and Pepper Foster. Is being Canadian something you feel you can trade on?
Ben: It's definitely something that works in our favour. We're very proud to say we're from Canada. It sets you apart from everyone else working in America.
Special to The Globe and Mail
