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Win friends and influence people with your cheese board by serving a wedge of Evanturel: a brie-style cheese with a line of vegetable ash running through its centre. Developed during the summer and fall of 2008, Evanturel hit stores in December and is already making a splash as a finalist in the 2009 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix.

If you were evaluating Evanturel, you would be presented with a slim, bloomy rind wheel that carries the aroma of earth and mushroom. Created to ripen evenly all the way through, the texture is rich, smooth and melt-in-your-mouth. The creamy flavour is well balanced to the salt content, and fresh, vegetal notes are evident. Brian O'Connor, executive director of Thornloe Cheese, reveals a secret to the rich texture: "We think the ash makes the cheese a bit creamier - that it has a hygroscopic effect and draws moisture into the cheese itself."

In 2007, the almost 70-year-old Thornloe Cheese plant (mainly a cheddar and curd producer) was on the verge of closing when it was purchased from Parmalat by Gencor, a farmer-run genetics company looking to develop their business.

One attractive attribute

of Thornloe's setting is its

agricultural area in Northern Ontario. Located about 1½ hours north of North Bay

and near the Quebec border, it sits on the Clay Belt, nestled within the Canadian Shield. The cooler climate results in a shorter growing season, so the cattle eat less corn and more forage (grasses and legumes), and barley is a major energy source in the diet. Thornloe cheese maker Martin Melendez believes these factors impart a rich and full taste to the resulting cheeses.

Last year, Mr. O'Connor got in touch with Cole Snell of Provincial Fine Foods in Toronto to consult on a new venture - creating Thornloe's first artisanal cheese. It would be made in small batches (about 300 litres) and use only 100-per-cent local milk. Mr. Snell knew exactly what he expected in flavour, texture and quality. "Brian was a great person to work with, I knew what I wanted and Brian listened. He didn't cut corners and he didn't complain when we sent it back," says Mr. Snell of the many trials they had to do to get the cheese just right.

Both also credit Mr. Melendez for his hard work. He had started making cheese in Central America and then worked in Germany before settling in Canada. His efforts have resulted in recognition for Thornloe at numerous awards shows (Thornloe's Asiago was a reserve champion at the 2008 Royal Agricultural Winter Fair). Will he be able to add a blue ribbon for the Evanturel to the list?

A new batch of this tasty contender is hot off the press. You be the judge.

***

On the block

Cheese Evanturel

Origin Thornloe, Ont.

Milk Pasteurized cow

Producer Thornloe Cheese

Cheese maker Martin Melendez

Type Soft, bloomy rind, ash centre, ripened three weeks

Notes Thornloe also makes an artisanal butter that is not stirred or pressed for draining. Instead it is drained naturally for 72 hours, allowing more of the sugars to remain in the cream

Shape 2.5-three kilogram wheel

Distributors Provincial Fine Foods

Available Ontario only

Toronto: Chabichou, Scheffler's Deli, Culinarium London: Smith Cheese Kitchener: Vincenzo's

Sue Riedl studied at the Cordon Bleu in London.

thespread@globeandmail.com