The scent
Valentina Oud Assoluto
The back story
Valentino launched Valentina in 2011 as the new floral identity for the brand; last year, it brought out a flanker (that's industry speak for a fragrance offshoot) called Assoluto. Now, a new, enigmatic variant has hit the market; it gets its name from the waxy, aromatic resin that forms when heartwood trees become infected with mould.
What it smells like
Those who are familiar with oud will immediately recognize its characteristic punch. The resin, however, has been doused with orange blossom and Bulgarian rose, floral notes that define the scent's feminine character. Initial spikes of cardamom and leather mellow out gradually; by day's end, all that remains is oud's enveloping aroma with a trace of vanilla.
The nose
Olivier Cresp has developed all of the Valentinas (he worked with Alberto Morillas on the original), maintaining the same floral DNA while introducing novel olfactory elements to each. Born in Grasse, the perfumer has a strong track record with flankers, but his biggest claim to fame is co-creating Thierry Mugler's iconic Angel back in 1992 with Yves de Chris.
The look
Valentina Assoluto's puck-shaped flacon and sculptural plastic rose are unchanged, but this time they're black. It's a minimalist yet moody statement further underscored by the contrast between glossy bottle and matte decoration. The gold band around the neck assures us that this is, indeed, a Valentino perfume, not a deadly potion in a pretty flask.
The face
Although there is no targeted campaign for Oud Assoluto, doe-eyed Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen has played muse for all the scents in the Valentina series. In the video for the first Valentina, she appeared strolling the streets of Rome in a gauzy black mini-dress with leather fringes, which now seems to have presaged the new scent's darker side.
Who it's for
A familiar scent to women in the Middle East, oud has a heady richness that may prove too overpowering for some North American noses. That said, the richness is no accident – its luxurious bouquet lingers on the skin and will seduce women with sophisticated tastes.
Cachet factor
The fact that Oud Assoluto is only available until February will create marketing-fuelled buzz, but the fragrance holds its own without it. Still, you might consider stocking up if you like it.
Where to buy it
$148 for 80 ml exclusively at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com).
Follow Amy Verner on Twitter: @amyverner.
Amy Verner