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Designs by veteran couturiers mingle with works by up-and-comers

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Before the show began, it became clear that Jean Paul Gaultier had conceived this haute couture collection as a tribute to Amy Winehouse. The program revealed outfits bearing names such as “Rehab,” “Brit award,” and “Self-lacerating moments.”

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This paillette-packed look was cheekily called “No, no, no!” But, really, it’s all rather Yes.

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With the help of some more conservative undergarments, this fluorescent orange lace gown could be a winning Oscar dress. But would any star have the moxie to wear it?

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Gaultier ended the show with his haute lingerie collection, and most of the pieces were paired with veils. There were black ones that suggested mourning and white ones that were obviously meant for bridal. And then there were more eccentric options - call them veils for veil’s sake.

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You may think fancy cellophane, but Lebanese designer Elie Saab had a chrysalis in mind when creating this silk tulle dress. The shorter skirt length means less surface area for all the embroidered sparkly flowers and paillettes. That’s a good thing. Ditto the sportier boat neckline.

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What you don’t see is that this neckline dips open at the back – a reverse plunge. Saab went with a very watery palette this season and though there were no literal lily pads, the ponds of Giverny felt not too far away.

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Here is a detail shot of the sleek ponytails created by hair master Orlando Pita. Thinking that he had taken his cue from actual horse grooming, I Googled “How to groom a horse’s tail” and can now conclude this is a distinctly human style.

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Saab, like many of his fellow couturiers, always ends his show with a wedding gown. He eschewed lace on this occasion, opting for a capped-sleeve bodice with full skirt printed with roses and embroidered in gold. All in all, a fresh design for a blushing bride.

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And here comes perennial Parisian beauty Ines de la Fressange, who has been on photo assignment at the couture shows all week. She may prove a pro lens man yet; but if her job was to go incognito, then she has successfully failed.

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You can be forgiven for not recognizing Berenice Bejo, star of The Artist, mostly because she’s in full colour!

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Paris-based Chinese designer Yiqing Yin has been making her presence known for the past year, winning fashion competitions, sponsorships and critical respect alike. For her first collection, she showed many strong looks and proved her hand with drapery.

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But on some occasions, Yin seemed to lack the critical skill of restraint. Where other couturiers typically go overboard with beading and embellishment, she fussed too much with all the pleats, tucks and folds.

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And not to split hairs, but what is so much fur doing in a spring/summer show? In this way, it’s a tad reminiscent of Kanye’s collection. But make no mistake, Yin has got serious potential. And some serious people rooting for her.

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Maxime Simoens channels a harder-edged attitude with his couture offerings. But it’s hard to imagine someone would go to all the expense and effort of couture for something like this.

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Or this - although at least the bra top and pant combo screams "pop star world tour."

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Simoens does have a softer side, too. It’s just not compelling enough.

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