A model walks the runway wearing Pink Tartan's fall 2011 collection at LG Fashion Week.
There's no doubt that Kimberley Newport-Mimran has a dedicated army. The designer's Pink Tartan label is one of the biggest draws of LG Fashion Week, regularly commanding the crowds. And, oh how they came: Those devout stilletoed troops packed the house on Tuesday night, battling bloggers and bigwigs to cram into their bleacher seats and sneak a peek of her fall 2011 collection.
Seems fitting, then, that Newport-Mimran took a military approach to the season in an effort to satisfy her legion of jet-set followers. "I call it couturitarian," she said backstage, describing the aesthetic as a blend of couture elements with hard combative edge.
She begins each season by searching out signature fabrics, and this time she found inspiration in a gradated parachute silk and rich camouflage jacquard. That parachute, vintaged and crinkled, appeared primarily in sharp shirting but proved most effective when it's softness was let loose on a dress with a full, mushroom-cloud size of a skirt. As for the jacquard? It lent polished toughness to another full skirt but positioned itself as the season's signature in the form of a skinny, tailored tux.
The less literal takes on the theme worked just as well, if not better. Rigid military lines did battle with delicate silks and feminine shapes, and the outcome was victorious. Slick double-breasted blazers with big gold buttons marched alongside swingy wools, matte almost-foggy blouses and swish leather trousers. Maxi coats with bracelet sleeves, which Newport-Mimran dictates to be important for fall, were impeccably cut and as sharp as a bayonet. Among the murky mossy greens and muddy browns, a stand-out amethyst was the only shade that didn't seem to belong in the trenches. But it was an essential accent, and especially beautiful in an army-inspired silk shirt paired with a flowy feathered mini.
The surplus of details and accessories such as the leather harnesses, high-heeled lace-up combat boots and caps served to tie the theme together, and much of that credit is due to George Antonopoulos, the smart stylist who regularly works with the label. It was in those important touches that the vision really came to life and instantly gave new edge to Newport-Mimran's always incredibly wearable pieces. Way to soldier on.