The short suit
Beloved by street-style peacocks, dreaded by men who were called “chicken legs” too many times on the playground, the short suit isn’t for those weak in the knees. “A lot of it is confidence,” says New York designer David Hart, who presented a lineup of truncated trousers at his spring show. “You can do it with a great white oxford shirt, a kind of unbuttoned look. I would keep it simple because, with a look that extreme, the more you add to it, the more difficult it is to pull off.” And please, gentlemen, no socks.
Paul Smith jacket, $675, Paul Smith shorts, $285, Givenchy watch, $860 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Armani Collezioni polo shirt, $245, Tod’s belt, $309, Brunello Cucinelli pocket square, $125 at Harry Rosen (www.harryrosen.com). Paul Smith shoes, $345 at Davids (www.davidsfootwear.com).
The unlined jacket
While some men might look at a blazer without full lining and think they aren’t getting bang for buck, a half-lined jacket is in fact a case of less being more. “The half-lining is a more luxurious construction,” says Nish de Gruiter of Suitsupply, the Dutch men’swear retailer that recently opened its first Canadian store in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood. Because the seam finishes are visible, explains de Gruiter, “designers can’t leave all of the mess behind and close it with a lining.” Perfect for post-work drinks, this kind of jacket is easier to wear with a polo or tee, as long as it’s perfectly tailored. “It’s like wearing a shirt,” De Gruiter says. “When you take away the extra layer, it fits closer to your body.”
Shipley & Halmos jacket, $495, Cole Haan shoes, $275 at Hudson’s Bay (www.thebay.com). Richard James shirt, $295 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Pants, $720, watch, $3,100 at Hermès (www.hermes.com). Hugo Boss tie, $145 at Harry Rosen (www.harryrosen.com).
Cotton and linen are standard spring suiting fabrics; among Neapolitan tailors, however, wool is considered the hardest-working textile 365 days of the year. “It absorbs moisture from your body and wicks it away much better than any other fabric,” says Agyesh Madan, the director of product development at Isaia, Italy’s venerable suit maker. Their warm-weather wool suits are made with a fine, high-twist yarn and a looser weave. The whole kit weighs in at about 200 grams. “It breathes well and it’s actually resilient enough throughout the day, no matter what kind of moisture condition you’re in,” Madan says.
Lightweight wool-linen Richard James jacket, $950, Richard James pants, $425 at Holt Renfrew (www.holtrenfrew.com). Hugo Boss shirt, $205, Z Zegna tie, $135, Simonnot Godard pocket square, $65 at Harry Rosen (www.harryrosen.com). Oliver Peoples x Maison Kitsuné sunglasses, $715 at Spectacle (www.spectaclelovesyou.com). Watch, $8,750 at Hermès (www.hermes.com). Paul Smith shoes, $595 at Davids (www.davidsfootwear.com).
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