The Mediterranean city is full of juxtapositions, especially when it comes to architectural landmarks such as the ornate Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque.
My mom always told me about the beauty of Beirut and how, when she was a young woman living in Cairo, she would travel there to experience its mix of Middle Eastern and European culture. But in 1975, Lebanon entered into a 15-year civil war that took its toll on the city. It was no longer safe to visit when I was young and we used to vacation in Egypt as a family. Last summer, however, I finally had the chance to experience what's often called the Paris of the Middle East when my cousin planned her wedding there.
Today, Beirut is a city like no other. The once war-torn port is thriving with high-end designer boutiques, galleries, restaurants and clubs. Out of that war came a palpable energy that pulses through the city and its people. Locals will tell you they live as though tomorrow may not come, because, for much of their lives, they weren't sure it would. It's not uncommon to see a motorcyclist soaring down the highway popping a wheelie, no helmet in sight.
Fashion has been a big part of Beirut's renaissance and the city is the epicentre of style in the Middle East. Virtually every major luxury brand has a presence here and the city is home to some of the most sought-after couturiers and designers, including celebrity favourites Reem Acra, Zuhair Murad, Georges Chakra and Elie Saab.
Saab became a household name when Halle Berry wore his sheer burgundy gown to accept her best actress Oscar for Monster's Ball in 2002. He recently reinforced his label's reputation as a red-carpet mainstay when Lupita Nyong'o sported a striped stunner of his design at the Screen Actors Guild Awards. The line is based out of a contemporary flagship in Beirut's central district, where you'll also find Aïshti, a retailer that operates a large network of high-end shops including boutiques for Cartier, Gucci and Céline. Just north of Beirut, Aïshti's Jal el Dib location stocks Italian designer housewares from Misuraemme and Minotti; the company also maintains a trio of restaurants.
Dining out in Beirut is where the real pleasure of the city lies. If you're a seafood lover, plan a visit to al Mandaloun Sur Mer, where a seat on one of the patio's striped divans guarantees a spectacular view of the Mediterranean and night sky. Plates of lobster and sea bass are accompanied by traditional Lebanese mezze – hummus, fattoush, tabouli and pickled vegetables – and often chased with arak, the Lebanese equivalent of anise-flavoured ouzo.
Up in the windy mountains that overlook the city, Mounir is another open-air dinner destination. Family-style tables are sheltered under a large white tent and next to a lush garden, but it's what's on your plate that you'll write home about. Try the kibbeh nayeh, a mix of raw, minced lamb, bulgur and spices.
Diners linger over their meals, especially if they're planning to hit the clubs when they're done. They say the party never really stops in Beirut, but it also doesn't start until 1 a.m. in a lot of places. Clubs like Sky Bar, Iris, Casino and White rule the night. The latter's rooftop bar is populated by Cirque du Soleil-style acrobats who tumble from the rafters to entertain the bottleservice crowd.
For a more underground experience, seek out Bo18. From the outside, the hedonistic haven looks like nothing more than a parking lot, but head down a somewhat daunting set of stairs and you emerge into a converted bomb shelter. The retracting roof has to be seen to be believed, and helps relieve any feelings of claustrophobia. As you dance until dawn, it becomes clear that the club is a perfect symbol for the contradiction of daily life in Beirut, and the adventure that awaits anyone who visits.
On the ground
Aïshti
In addition to an extensive lineup of stores and restaurants, this company publishes a style magazine called A and runs an art foundation. www.aishti.com
Bo18
The party gets started after 1 a.m. at this bunker-turned-discotheque in an industrial area of Beirut. www.bo18.com
Elie Saab
A celebrity favourite, designer Saab runs his eponymous fashion brand from headquarters in the city's downtown. www.eliesaab.com
al Mandaloun Sur Mer
In addition to this seaside restaurant, the al Mandaloun group runs a nightclub in a converted theatre in the Mar Mikhael neighbourhood. www.almandaloun.com
Mounir
Located about an hour east of the city, Mounir offers an extensive menu of traditional dishes and al fresco dining. www.mounirs.com
White
A cast of international performers and go-go dancers entertains the big-spending crowd at this open-air club. www.whitebeirut.com
This story originally appeared in the March 2015 issue of Globe Style Advisor. To download the magazine's free iPad app, visit tgam.ca/styleadvisor.