Men's wear designer Philip Sparks loves his historical references, so it's not at all surprising that his latest collection gives a big nod to Herman Melville's Moby Dick. No longer a fashion rookie, Sparks turned out a well-edited array of 12 looks on March 11, more than two weeks before the official start of Toronto's LG Fashion Week. Making up a tableau vivant rather than strutting down a conventional runway, the boyish models appeared, paused at centre stage and then took their places among a stack of crates and found objects, as if waiting for their ship to come in.
Despite the theatrics, the clothing wasn't costumey: Sparks always knows exactly when to pull back and make his attire relevant. More nautical-inspired outerwear circa 1850 than an homage to great white whales, the standout Skipper, Captain and cape coats seem designed to withstand coastal Newfoundland weather but could be just as appropriate for city streets, especially paired with slim cut jeans.
There were henleys and hoodies and cardigans for low-key layering options and plaid dress shirts as buttoned-up counterpoints. One minor quibble: Waistcoats may be having a moment, but double-breasted styles are a tougher sell. They're simply too stuffy.
Working predominantly with a moody palette of black and navy, Sparks also showed tweedy grey jackets boasting distinctive piped pockets. And speaking of pockets, they came in all sizes, from small ones on outer arms to a giant example, like a built-in storage compartment, on the back of one jacket.
Time will tell whether Sparks's black double-knit long johns will become to men what leggings are to women. Meanwhile, the deep and roomy leather knapsacks and satchels with their vintage sensibility are poised to become the It bags for hipsters with 9 to 5 jobs - in offices, not on whaling vessels.
For more Toronto LG Fashion week coverage, visit FASHION magazine.
Amy Verner