What's in your wine pantry? Not your cellar. I mean pantry.
And I'm speaking figuratively, of course. People generally don't keep kitchen larders stockpiled solely with bottles for everyday drinking. (Well, I do, but I'm funny that way.)
Many of us have a mental list, though, of go-to brands. Wines that are good to have on hand and won't involve a second-mortgage application. Wines that fit the bill for when the spouse says, "It's the last day of my Gwyneth Paltrow cleanse and we're out of pinot grigio. Could you pick some up?" I'm talking affordable kitchen-counter staples for when the cookbook advises: "Serve with a syrah or gutsy French red."
If there are empty slots in your wine pantry, consider the candidates that follow. It's hardly a definitive list. For one thing, I restricted it to widely available selections. Most great wines simply aren't available in more than one province at a time, let alone nationally. That's not just because fine wine tends to be made in small quantities but also because parochial Canadian liquor legislation renders it cumbersome for wineries and importers to operate nationally: They have to deal with government agencies in each and every province for every single product.
I've also spread the selections across a variety of major grape types rather than sticking with just one or two popular styles. After all, you wouldn't stock a food pantry with just sugar and flour. Variety is the spice of wine.
There is another restriction: I've placed great emphasis on price, setting the cap at $20, based on Ontario retail. Any higher, and we're talking about the cellar rather than pantry. So, think of this list as my Pop 20 under $20 for 2010. In some cases, where important, I've listed the vintage year to look for. All prices are those in Ontario, except where specified.
Chardonnay
One nominee raced to mind here. Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay ($19.95). Year in, year out, this entry-level white from the one of France's best large producers overachieves. And the fresh 2008 vintage is very good. White Burgundy is almost always made with chardonnay, and chardonnay is nowhere more food-friendly than in a well-made Burgundy. Pair with anything, but this medium-bodied white is especially fit for poultry, richer fish dishes, and lighter-coloured red meats such as pork and veal. Runner-up: Louis Latour Chardonnay 2007, also from Burgundy ($15.95).
Cabernet Sauvignon
So much competition in this category. Every region wants to grow the most coveted red grape. But no region does it better in such an affordable way than Chile. Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha ($19.95): Part of the premium label of the popular Concha Y Toro brand, this cab outclasses most in its price range. Ideal for steak, lamb or rare roast beef. Runner-up: Santa Rita Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95).
Sangiovese
Available only in Ontario, British Columbia and Alberta, Remole Toscana 2007 ($12.95) tastes a lot like a decent Chianti, but without the price premium. Medium-bodied, fresh and unoaked, it's super-versatile at the table. Tremendous value. Runner-up: Gabbiano Chianti 2007, another good Tuscan red for the price.
Merlot
There is good merlot and there is dirty dish water disguised as merlot. Most of the stuff in your local store falls into the latter category. I'm usually so thrilled to find an example of the former for less than $20 that it makes me want to invent a 140-character text-messaging system so I'd have a way of alerting my friends. Ghost Pines Merlot 2006 ($19.95), a new label from the Louis Martini winery in California, now owned by the Gallo family, delivers. Smooth like a merlot should be, and luscious with creamy mocha and succulent fruit flavours. Runner-up: Leaping Horse Merlot 2007 ($11.50), also from California.
Syrah/Grenache
