Fresh local produce is spilling over at greengrocers and farmers' markets. Here is an elegant summer menu that uses fruit in the main course and in the dessert. The chicken dish has an edge of spice that balances the sweetness of the fruit, and the dessert is haute comfort food. Spicy radishes are the perfect complement to ricotta salata.
RADISH SALAD WITH RICOTTA SALATA
Ricotta salata is a mellow sheep's milk cheese from Italy that resembles Italian feta, only drier. It grates and dices well, and has a sweet milky flavour. Substitute pecorino or even feta if you can't find it. Use a mandolin, if you have one, to slice the radishes.
What you need
2 cups thinly sliced radishes
6 cups baby spinach
6 ounces ricotta salata
Shallot vinaigrette:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/3 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
What you do
Place radish slices in a bowl and mix with spinach.
Shave ricotta with a vegetable peeler and set aside.
Whisk together mustard, tarragon, shallots and red wine vinegar. Slowly whisk in olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper. Toss vegetables with just enough dressing to coat. Add reserved ricotta salata and toss once more. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4.
CHICKEN WITH LEMON BALM AND ROASTED FIGS
The curry provides a little background texture; the dish itself is not hot. You can substitute mint for the lemon balm if you wish, and add 1 teaspoon grated lemon rind. Serve with rice and stir-fried snow peas. Figs are not native to Canada, although there are people trying to grow them on the West Coast. If you want to go local, use plums instead.
What you need
2 tablespoons chopped ginger
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
2 teaspoons garam masala
¼ cup fresh lemon balm, chopped
1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup vegetable oil
4 boneless chicken breasts, skin on
Salt and freshly ground pepper
8 figs, halved and stem end trimmed
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
½ teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon olive oil
½ cup orange juice
What you do
Preheat oven to 425 F. Mix ginger, garlic, garam masala, lemon balm, lemon juice and 3 tablespoons oil in a food processor or by hand. Set aside.
Season chicken with salt and pepper. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and fry chicken, skin side down for 2 minutes or until skin is golden. Turn over and brown second side. Remove chicken from pan and rub with reserved lemon balm mixture. Place chicken in an oven-proof baking dish and bake for 10 minutes.
Toss figs with balsamic vinegar and sugar and olive oil. Place, cut side down, around the chicken. Add orange juice. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes longer or until juices run clear. Remove from oven and let rest for 5 minutes.
Cut breasts into ½-inch slices and surround with figs and any juices. Serves 4.
PEACH TURNOVERS
You can thicken the peaches with cornstarch, instead of reducing the juices, but my method is lighter and the flavour is more intense. The pastry is rich and delicious.
What you need
Pastry:
1 cup flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup butter
1/3 cup mascarpone cheese
Filling:
1 pound peaches
1/3 cup peach or apricot jam
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Glaze:
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon sugar
What you do
Combine flour, salt and butter in a food processor and pulse together until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add mascarpone and pulse until well combined. Remove from processor and gently knead to bring dough together into a ball. Chill for 30 minutes.
Divide dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll each piece out into a 6-inch square on a floured board. Chill until needed.
Preheat oven to 375 F.
Bring a pot of water to boil and add peaches. Boil for 30 seconds, remove from heat and slip off skins. Cut peaches into ¾-inch chunks.
Place jam and peaches in a pot over medium heat. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook, stirring frequently, for 6 to 8 minutes or until peaches are cooked.
Strain mixture, reserving fruit and juices separately. Return juices to pot, bring to a boil and cook for 8 minutes or until juices are the consistency of jam and have caramelized slightly. Return peaches to mixture. Stir in lemon juice and let cool.
Place ¼ cup of peach mixture onto each pastry square. Moisten edges with cold water and fold pastry in half to make triangles, pressing edges together with the tines of a fork to seal. Use a knife to trim pastry edges.
Place turnovers on a parchment-lined baking sheet and brush with beaten egg and sprinkle with sugar. Cut a few slits on top to allow steam to escape.
Bake for 22 to 25 minutes or until pastry is golden and filling is hot.
Serve warm or cold with ice cream. Makes 4 turnovers.
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