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Fresh local tomatoes are in season now, and this is the time to be eating them. Buy heirloom varieties if you can, or juicy, vine-ripened ones.

Tomato salads should be simple: Serve the fruit with onions or fresh mozzarella or simply on their own. Tomatoes are acidic enough that you don't need vinegar. Dress with salt, pepper and good-quality olive oil.

RATATOUILLE WITH PASTA

Ratatouille the movie is a glorious treat in which an animated rat creates a magnificent ratatouille (recipe courtesy of real-life chef Thomas Keller of the French Laundry). Here is my version: a little unorthodox but wonderful. I roast the vegetables and tomatoes with lots of fresh herbs, garlic and a mustard sauce.

You can vary the quantity of vegetables, if desired. Use plum tomatoes as they have a thicker skin and hold their shape better. Sicilian eggplant is football shaped and sweeter and less seedy than the regular variety (which can be used in its place).

Serve as a main course for lunch or an appetizer for dinner.

Cover with cheese and bake for 25 minutes for an accompaniment to roast lamb. Here, it is tossed with pasta.

What you need

2 cups chopped onions

1 Sicilian eggplant, cut into ½-inch dice

4 cups chopped zucchini (½-inch dice)

1 red pepper, cut into ½-inch dice

3½ cups plum tomatoes, quartered

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons slivered fresh basil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/3 cup olive oil

1 pound penne pasta

¼ cup chopped parsley

Grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese

What you do

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Combine onion, eggplant, zucchini, red pepper and tomatoes in a large bowl.

Stir in garlic, basil, thyme and oregano and season well with salt and pepper.

Whisk together mustard and oil and toss with vegetables.

Spread vegetables on a large baking pan and bake for 50 minutes, stirring after 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender and slightly browned but not soupy.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add penne and cook according to package directions. Drain, reserving some pasta cooking water.

Toss pasta with ratatouille mixture, thinning with reserved pasta cooking water if desired. Add parsley and sprinkle with cheese. Serves 6.

TOMATO TARTLETS

WITH SPICY GREENS

These tartlets are best if made with really flavourful tomatoes such as heirloom. Grown from ancient seeds, they have the taste and juiciness that tomatoes are supposed to have. If you can't find them, substitute any locally grown tomato.

The goat cheese pastry has a hint of fennel in it. If you have leftover dough, roll it out and cut into biscuits to serve another time. The tartlets make a wonderful first course.

What you need

Pastry:

½ cup soft goat cheese

½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1¼ cups flour

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons cracked fennel seed

Filling:

4 heirloom tomatoes, thinly sliced and seeded

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salad:

1 cup watercress leaves

1 cup baby arugula

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon lemon juice

4 sprigs basil

What you do

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Combine goat cheese, butter, flour, salt and fennel seeds in a food processor and pulse until dough just begins to come together. Remove dough to a bowl and form into a ball.

Roll dough out on a lightly floured surface and cut into 6 4-inch rounds. Prick each round with a fork. Place rounds on a baking sheet and bake 10 to 13 minutes or until pastry is golden. Cool on rack.

Salt the tomatoes and combine with olive oil and basil in a bowl. Season with pepper.

Place biscuits on individual serving plates and top with tomato slices, in a tower if possible.

Toss greens (except basil) with olive oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

Top or surround tomatoes with a small quantity of salad. Garnish with basil leaves. Serves 6.