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So what is the new posh food in Britain? Based on my recent visit to London, the answer is fish and chips. The classic dish has risen from its newspaper-wrapped, lowly existence into the new darling of the food fashionable. And top-notch restaurants, such as Geales in Holland Park, feature stunning versions. They are still the deep-fried, crunchy, decadent treats I remember, but the batter is thinner and the side dishes more interesting - and it's served on white china!

Geales lets you choose from a selection of pristine, sustainable fresh fish and if you don't want it deep-fried, you can have it grilled or sautéed. Sides include chips and the classic mushy peas, along with creamed spinach, arugula and Parmesan salad (which you'll find everywhere on Brit menus) and other seasonal favourites.

FISH AND CHIPS DONE RIGHT

I grew up in Glasgow with fish and chips wrapped in newspaper and the smell of the malt vinegar wafting through my senses. If you are not near a fish and chip shop, here is a homemade version of the traditional kind. Batters for the fish vary by region, but my preferred one is a crisp baking powder version. If deep-frying is a technique you fear, remember these simple rules: You don't need vast quantities of oil. Use a deep pot or wok. Balance the wok on a wok ring to prevent tipping. Fry in small batches to keep the oil at a constant temperature. Use a slotted spoon, tongs or strainer to remove the food before draining on paper towels. Well drained and fried at the proper temperature, food does not absorb much oil.

TRADITIONAL FRIED FISH

Use the batter as soon as the baking powder is added to ensure crispness.

What you need

Vegetable oil for deep frying

1 cup cold water

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 pounds halibut or cod

What you do

Cut fish into approximately 2-by-3-inch pieces.

Heat about 1 inch of oil in a wok or deep pot to 375 F or until a cube of bread turns brown in 15 seconds.

Combine water, oil and salt in a mixing bowl. Gradually whisk in 1 cup flour. Stir in baking powder immediately before use, making sure that it is evenly blended.

Season remaining ½ cup flour with salt and pepper and place on a plate. Dredge the fillets in the seasoned flour and dip them, one at a time, in the batter.

Drop fillets into hot oil, cooking for 4 to 6 minutes, or until puffed and brown and fish is cooked. Drain fillets on paper towels. Serve with chips. Serves 4.

BRITISH CHIPS

Cook chips in two stages. Blanch in oil heated to about 325 F, until soft but not coloured. This can be done earlier in the day. For the second stage, heat the oil to 375 F. A swift cooking for about 2 to 3 minutes browns the outside and makes the chips crispy. If properly cooked, they should show no signs of sogginess. If you prefer a crisper chip, soak cut potatoes in cold water for a couple of minutes before the first frying, then drain and pat dry. These are thick chips, not frites.

what you need

4 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled

Peanut or canola oil

Salt to taste

What you do

Slice potatoes into ½-inch thick slices. Pile a few slices on top of each other and cut into ½-inch thick strips. Pat dry.

Heat oil to 325 F or until a cube of bread turns brown in 45 seconds.

Add fries in batches and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, or until soft but not brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.

Heat oil to 375 F or until a cube of bread turns brown in 15 seconds.

Fry chips another 2 to 3 minutes or until crispy and golden brown. Drain, dust with salt and serve.

LOW-FAT BUT NEARLY

AS GOOD VERSION

Nothing beats deep-fried fish, but here is a low-calorie version. Serve with lemon slices and a salad.

What you need

¼ cup buttermilk

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

¼ cup flour

¼ cup cornmeal

4 6-ounce pieces cod or haddock, skinned

1 tablespoon olive oil

What you do

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Season buttermilk with salt and pepper. Combine dill, flour, cornmeal, salt and pepper in a dish. Dip fillets into buttermilk. Dip each side into flour mixture and shake off excess.

Place on a heavily oiled baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, turning halfway through, until coating is slightly browned and white juices just appear. Serves 4.

OVEN BAKED CHIPS

For the calorie-conscious: Cut 3 potatoes as for British chips. Toss with 2 tablespoons oil and salt and pepper. Bake at 425 F for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on size, turning occasionally or until golden brown. Serves 4.

MUSHY PEAS

You should use the big fat canned or dried and cooked marrow fat peas for this, but I usually use frozen for a fresher end result.

What you need

¼ cup butter

4 cups frozen peas

1 cup finely chopped green onions

2 tablespoons finely chopped mint

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add peas and green onions and sauté for 5 minutes or until peas are bright green and tender.

Stir in mint and season with salt and pepper.

Remove from heat and pulse in a food processor until you have a coarse purée. Reheat when needed. Serves 4.

lwaverman@globeandmail.com