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When the weather in Vancouver turns frightful, it's time to reach for a bowl of hearty, homemade soup.

Nuba's red lentil rib-sticker, thick with puréed carrots and richly scented with peppercorn, ginger, fenugreek and clove, provides the perfect kick-start to the pre-holiday fall cleanse.

The flavours at this tiny, vegan-friendly restaurant are traditional; co-owner Victor Bouzide has adopted the recipes his grandmother used when she represented Lebanon at the Chicago World's Fair in 1893.

But the downtown setting - with its white-washed brick walls, polished concrete floor and contoured bamboo chairs - is thoroughly modern.

On Saturday night, the cheerful room offered a pleasant respite from the pouring rain. Reggae music wafted in the background and the place was packed with laidback hipsters in trendy skullcaps and stretchy yoga wear.

There was nary a belly dancer, hookah or whimsical throw cushion in sight.

There wasn't much of a welcome, either.

Similar to the original Nuba (at 322 West Hastings St.), this second location is more of a take-out shop than a full-service restaurant. It seats only 15.

After it slowly dawned on us that no one was going to take our order, we sidled up to the counter.

Presto! The impassive clerk suddenly burst into life and was more than happy to help us navigate the chalkboard offerings as best she could.

"I don't eat meat, but the chicken smells very good," she said. "That's what the guys in the kitchen always eat - or the lamb kafta."

Nuba seems to cater to Vancouver's distinct brand of fashionable granola-crunchers. The kitchen boasts no microwave or can opener and uses organic ingredients whenever possible, according to chef and co-owner Jeremy Duckworth.

"Microwaves are gross. They burn food funny and kill all the nutrients," he says.

The dishes (priced at $10 or less) are prepared three ways: mezze (an appetizer size, which includes a small green salad and pickled pink cabbage); pita (rolled in a whole-wheat wrap with lettuce, tomato and organic tahini); or plate (with finely ground hummus, tabbouleh, salad, pita, tahini and roasted potatoes or brown rice.

In addition to the soup, a must-try dish is Najib's Special. The crisped cauliflower is tossed with organic lemon and sea salt. The zesty bites of browned veggies really dance in the mouth.

Falafel, rolled with spiced fava beans and vegetables, is far more moist and flavourful than your average chickpea patty.

Mjadra, a mix of organic green lentils and rice, was disappointingly light on the jalapeno reduction (the so-called hot sauce made with olive oil, lemon juice and seedless jalapeno peppers didn't have much kick either). But the wedges of avocado slices and a fried-onion topping saved the plate from sinking into blandsville.

Lamb kafta, grilled patties of grain-fed lamb, had no such luck. Lamb kibbeh, the same patties plumped with vegetables, pine nuts and bulgur, sounded much more interesting.

As did the beef skewers marinated with tomato and pomegranate (which weren't available because the kitchen is switching to a new beef supplier).

Service improved after we had ordered. We didn't have to fetch our plates from the counter; they were delivered with a smile and promptly cleared.

A small pot of Turkish coffee arrived just as we were finishing our dinner. It was served "black as hell and strong as death," just as the ancient Turkish proverb says it should be, but stirred with way too much rosewater. A few less floral notes, please.

Don't bother with dessert. The baklava was dry and the butter in the traditional shortbread cookies tasted rancid.

All in all, Nuba offers a spicy alternative to the neighbourhood's ubiquitous sushi joints.

I wouldn't rush in. But if you do, be sure to order the soup.

Nuba Restaurant: 1206 Seymour St.; 778-371-3266

agill@globeandmail.com