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In life, we seldom find perfection, but my husband, Bruce, and I came close when we stayed at a new resort on the wild Sonoma Coast near Tomales Bay in California. Nick's Cove has been an eight-year labour of love for Pat Kuleto, famous San Francisco restaurateur and Sonoma winemaker.

Kuleto, one of Time magazine's top 100 innovators for the 21st century, is a restaurant designer with such jewels to his name as San Francisco's Farallon and Jardiniere, and more than 160 others across the country. He believes in comfort in his restaurants and in his resort.

Nick's Cove is small, with no swimming pool or high-end spa. It is simply the most peaceful place I have visited.

There are nine cottages, simple in look but furnished beautifully with luxurious beds, comfy sofas and state-of-the-art bathrooms. (Ours had a slipper bathtub and heated floor!)

The views of sea, sky and fisher boats are unending.

The place is so well organized that your every desire is looked after before you know you need it.

They have a very good restaurant that features local produce and fish as well as the famous oysters from around the Bay. Near nirvana.

Chefs Heather Ames and Matt Weinberger change the simple menu frequently, depending on what is available at the time. One of my favourite dishes was the barbecued oysters.

BBQ OYSTERS

Pacific oysters are larger than the East Coast varieties and they are not as sweet and briny. It is definitely the fashion to barbecue them and you can visit places on the coast such as Hog Island Oyster Company, where they sell you the oysters, give you the barbecue and let you do your own.

You can have oysters shucked ahead of time by the fishmonger if you are cooking them the same day.

These can also be baked. The timing is the same.

What you need

Garlic Parsley Butter:

¼ cup butter, softened

½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Pinch salt

Oysters:

24 fresh large oysters, shucked and left on the half shell

¼ cup barbecue sauce of choice

What you do

Preheat barbecue to high.

Mix together butter, garlic, parsley and salt in a small bowl.

Place oysters in their half shell on grill.

Cook with lid open for 4 minutes or until juices in the oyster shells just begin to bubble.

Spoon half a teaspoon of garlic parsley butter and half a teaspoon of barbecue sauce onto each oyster and continue to grill until butter and sauce begin to bubble, about 1 more minute.

Serve immediately. Serves 4

FISH TACOS

Fish tacos are a highlight all down the Sonoma Coast.

The best way to serve them is to lay everything out on the table and let people pile up their own tortillas.

Traditionally, these should be served with corn tortillas, but you could use flour ones if you prefer.

On the West Coast, they use ling cod, which we seldom get in Canada.

I have substituted halibut, although tilapia or other firm-fleshed fish would work too.

what you need

500 grams (1 pound) halibut

1 teaspoon chili powder

Salt to taste

16 corn tortillas

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

8 lime wedges

what you do

Skin halibut and cut into 8 long strips.

Season fish with chili powder and salt. Warm tortillas over a burner or in the oven until warmed through. Wrap warm tortillas in a napkin until ready to serve.

Heat a large sauté pan until smoking hot. Remove from heat and add oil, swirl to coat pan and return to heat.

Carefully place fish (in batches if necessary) in hot pan and sear 1 minute per side or until golden and just cooked through.

Place fish on a warm plate and serve with cilantro cream, salsa fresca, cabbage slaw, lime wedges and warm corn tortillas. You could also add diced avocado and rice and beans. Serves 4.

The following recipes should be prepared ahead of time:

CILANTRO CREAM

what you need

½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream

¼ cup finely chopped cilantro

Salt and freshly ground pepper

what you do

Combine cream, cilantro and season with salt and pepper.

CABBAGE SLAW

A touch of crispness to give another texture to the taco.

What you need

6 cups shredded red cabbage (or half green cabbage)

3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Mix together all ingredients. Season well with salt and pepper.

Let sit at least 30 minutes. Serves 4.

SALSA FRESCA

Jalapenos vary in heat. Use less or more, depending on your taste.

Good store-bought salsa could be used as a substitute.

what you need

1½ cups diced ripe tomato

½ cup chopped red onion

½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1 tablespoon chopped and seeded jalapeno pepper

2 teaspoons lime juice

¼ cup chopped cilantro

Salt to taste

what you do

Combine all ingredients and let sit at least 30 minutes.

lwaverman@globeandmail.com