An old-school brunch that's fit for a crowd

Lucy Waverman

LUCY WAVERMAN

At the Willunga Market in the Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia, I learned to poach eggs all over again. The market is a pristine example of how such places should be run. It sells only organic food products, which purveyors must either grow or make themselves. It is the go-to meeting place for the community on a Saturday, rather like church used to be on Sunday. They serve a "Big Breakfast" on picnic tables with your choice of poached eggs and local bacon or smoked salmon, and fresh juice from whatever fruit is available at the time. (Pink Lady apples make fabulous apple juice)

Their egg-poaching method allows you to poach a dozen eggs or more at a time and hold them until later if you wish.

This made me think about cooking brunch for a crowd, which is a great way of entertaining that is less work and often more fun than a dinner party. Here is an easy make-ahead brunch that can be doubled or tripled in a snap.

POACHED EGGS WITH

SMOKED-SALMON-AND-CHIVE REMOULADE

Serve these on toasted sourdough baguette, which, in my opinion, is far superior to English muffins. You need the freshest eggs for the best results.

What you need

Poached eggs:

4 litres water

¼ cup white vinegar

12 eggs

Chive remoulade:

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup chopped chives

1 cup chopped arugula

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons capers

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt to taste

12 slices baguette, toasted

12 slices smoked salmon

What you do

Place water and vinegar in a large stockpot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and crack eggs into mixture one at a time. Cook eggs for 3 minutes and then use a slotted spoon to remove them to a baking dish filled with water (warm if serving right away, cold if holding eggs for later).

Combine mayonnaise, chives, arugula, lemon juice, capers and mustard in a food processor, and process until smooth. Season with salt to taste.

To reheat eggs if they are cold, bring a skillet of water to simmer. Slip eggs into water and reheat gently for 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve, place two slices of baguette on a plate. Top each with a poached egg, drape with a slice of smoked salmon and spoon chive remoulade over top. Serves 6.

LEEK AND MUSHROOM

STRUDEL

This dish gives you a starch and vegetables together. Use your imagination and change the filling if you like.

What you need

Filling:

2 tablespoons butter

3 cups chopped leeks (1 bunch)

500 grams mixed mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

¼ cup whipping cream

¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs

Salt and freshly ground pepper

½ cup grated Manchego or Parmesan cheese

1 package puff pastry, defrosted

8 ounces goat cheese, crumbled

Glaze:

1 egg yolk

2 tablespoons whipping cream

What you do

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and sauté for 2 minutes or until beginning to soften. Add mushrooms and garlic and sauté for 4 minutes longer, or until mushrooms are soft. Add cream and cook for 30 seconds or until cream just coats vegetables. Stir in breadcrumbs and grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Divide pastry in half and roll out each piece to a 10 x 10-inch square and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Cover half of each square with goat cheese, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Top with vegetable mixture.

Beat together egg yolk and whipping cream for glaze and brush over pastry edges. Fold pastry over vegetables to cover. Press edges together to seal and brush top with glaze. At 2-inch intervals, slash pastry leaving a 2-inch border on each side.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until pastry is golden and filling is hot. Serves 6 to 8.

SALAD WITH PANCETTA,

ESCAROLE, ASIAGO AND

PICKLED ONIONS

Some salads demand second helpings, and this is one of them.

What you need

Pickled onions:

½ cup red-wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced

Salad:

¼ cup olive oil

8 slices pancetta

1 escarole lettuce, torn in pieces

Dressing:

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

¼ cup finely grated Asiago cheese

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 ounces Asiago, shaved

What you do

Bring vinegar and sugar to a simmer over medium heat. Place onions in a bowl, season with salt and pepper and pour warm vinegar over them. Leave for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Reserve onions and drain when needed. These will keep for a week.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in skillet on medium heat. Add pancetta slices and fry until crisp, about 6 minutes. Remove and drain.

Remove core of escarole and tear into bite-sized pieces.

Whisk together mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, Worcestershire and remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Stir in sage and grated Asiago. Season with salt and pepper.

Toss all but 2 tablespoons of the dressing with lettuce and pile on a platter. Surround with onions and pancetta and drizzle with remaining dressing. Top with shaved Asiago. Serves 6.

lwaverman@globeandmail.com

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