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Here is a fall dinner full of unusual tastes and techniques. Mulligatawny soup was a gift from Indian cooks to the 19th-century British colonists who wanted a bowl of not-too-spicy soup. My version is not authentic, but I use many of the traditional ingredients. It's easier to prepare and is a superb soup anyway.

As for the brisket, cooking it for six hours may seem like heresy, but you have never tasted such a rich, gorgeous piece of meat.

The recipe was perfected by Chef David Lee at Splendido restaurant and I have adapted it from his technique.

SWEET-POTATO

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP

If you want a spicier soup, then add some hot chili flakes.

What you need

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup chopped onions

1 cup chopped carrots

3 cups chopped sweet potatoes

1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander seeds

1 teaspoon mild curry paste

¼ cup red lentils

4 cups chicken stock

½ cup coconut milk

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped coriander

What you do

Heat oil in a pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté for 2 minutes or until beginning to soften.

Add carrots and sweet potato and sauté for 5 minutes more. Add ginger, cumin, coriander seeds and curry paste and sauté for 1 minute or until fragrant. Add lentils and stir to coat with spices.

Add chicken stock and coconut milk and bring to a boil. Turn heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes or until vegetables are very soft and lentils have softened.

Purée with an immersion blender or in a food processor until smooth.

Season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir in lemon juice and coriander.

Serves 6.

THE ULTIMATE BRISKET

David Lee wraps the brisket in foil, but I do it in a roasting pan so that we can make the gravy later using the caramelized bits. Serve with creamed wasabi parsnips, green beans or other crisp green vegetables. To crack the peppercorns and seeds, place them in a plastic bag and crush with the back of a pot. Try to find low-sodium stock so that when you reduce it, it won't taste too salty.

What you need

2 tablespoons cracked fennel seeds

2 tablespoons cracked coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cracked peppercorns

5-pound brisket

Kosher salt to taste

2 cups sliced onions

Gravy:

1 tablespoon tomato paste

3 cups chicken or beef stock

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Preheat oven to 325 F.

Combine fennel seeds, coriander seeds and black peppercorns. Sprinkle over fatty side of the brisket, then salt to taste.

Place in a roasting pan, cover with foil and a lid if you have one and roast for 4 hours.

Remove pan from oven. Sprinkle the onions into juices, replace foil and return to oven for 1½ to 2 hours, or until meat is very tender and onions are soft.

Remove brisket from pan and reserve. Skim fat from juices and discard.

Place roasting pan on stovetop over high heat. Stir tomato paste into onions and juices. Add stock and soy sauce. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes or until sauce thickens slightly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Carve brisket against the grain and reheat sliced brisket in the sauce when needed. Serves 6.

CREAMED PARSNIPS

WITH WASABI

My new favourite mash. This is fabulous with the brisket and also great with roast chicken.

What you need

6 parsnips, peeled and cut into chunks

¼ cup cubed butter

½ cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons prepared wasabi

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Cook parsnips in salted water over medium-high heat for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender. Drain and purée in a food processor while still warm.

Remove from processor and stir in butter, cream and wasabi. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6.

PEARS WITH MAPLE CREAM

A surprisingly easy, rich dessert. Dates and ginger make a great stuffing, but you can use any mixture you like.

What you need

4 ripe Bartlett pears, peeled

8 dates, chopped

2 tablespoons minced candied ginger

2 teaspoons grated orange rind

¼ cup white wine

½ cup maple syrup

1 cup whipping cream

½ teaspoon nutmeg

What you do

Preheat oven to 375 F. Cut tops off pears. Scoop out core with a melon baller. Combine dates, ginger and orange rind. Stuff into pear core. Lay pears in baking dish. Combine wine, maple syrup and whipping cream and pour over pears. Bake for 15 minutes, basting and turning occasionally or until pears are tender.

Sprinkle with nutmeg.

Pour basting sauce into pot and boil for 5 to 7 minutes on high heat or until thickened slightly. Place pear in centre of plates spooning sauce around it or place in wineglasses and pour sauce over. Serve warm or cold with ice cream.

lwaverman@globeandmail.com