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Ever go through phases with wine? Does one region or style sometimes capture your fancy more than others?

There are wine enthusiasts on lifelong Burgundy and Rhône binges, of course, and I can't say I blame them. But even for those of us cursed with adventurous palates, who see a time and a place for every style and region (except maybe sparkling merlot), there's still a tendency to play favourites from time to time.

I can remember my California zinfandel craze. I'm sure it had something to do with the Bobby Flay cookbooks I was chargrilling my way through. Zinfandel and zesty Southwestern cuisine are the Newman and Woodward of food, a classic American pairing.

For what it's worth, I'm on a regional kick now, a bi-regional one, to be exact. I'm loving the parade of gorgeous B.C. whites and southern Rhône reds on the market. Winemakers all over British Columbia seem to be capturing deliciously pure flavours and, more impressively, scintillating balance in their white wines. I'm not sure why. Maybe it's the maturity of the vines, which produce more concentrated fruit as they age. Maybe it's the evolving expertise of the winemakers, keenly applying the best global practices to their vineyards and cellars. Maybe it's just my good fortune in getting to try so many in recent months.

One of the most memorable, not just because I tried it only this week, is Pentâge Winery Riesling 2006 ($18). It's hard to find it unless you live near private stores in British Columbia and Alberta or like to dine in some of the West's better restaurants. But B.C. residents can order it from the Okanagan winery's website, http://www.pentage.com.

The first riesling from Pentage, an excellent boutique producer, it's light but bursting with flavour, dominated by notes of green apple, grapefruit and apricot, with a hint of minerals and a lively, crisp, perfectly dry finish. It's a terrific white for people who like theirs crisp and fruity, without the herbal character of sauvignon blanc.

Another great wine available from the same website is Pentâge Winery Pentâge 2004, ($29), a flagship red made from merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, syrah and gamay noir. The soft merlot comes through clearly, with nuances of fresh cherry, violet and milk chocolate and a warm finish.

If you can find it, don't miss Mission Hill Family Estate

Reserve Chardonnay 2005 ($21.99 B.C. product No. 651315). It's selling out quickly in British Columbia, but should be in ample supply elsewhere, such as Alberta ($16.97) and Ontario ($22.15, No. 545004). Full-bodied and structured around silky tropical fruit and well-integrated oak, it offers up balancing acidity and intriguing nuances of gunmetal and minerals. This Okanagan chardonnay from celebrated winemaker John Simes is considerably more elegant than the vast majority of Californian or Australian chardonnays at a similar price. It's no surprise Simes is a past winner of the world's best chardonnay trophy at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London. His Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Pinot Gris 2006 ($21.80) is superb too. The man is on fire.

Another fine, full-bodied white from the same vintage, though from farther south, near the Washington State border, is Nk'Mip Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2006 ($24.76). Nk'Mip is North America's first aboriginal-owned and -operated winery, where non-native winemaker Randy Picton is currently training young assistants from the Osoyoos Indian Band. This top-end chardonnay is just being released (the older and still decent 2005 may still be on many shelves). It's full-bodied and silky, with flavours of red apple, citrus, honey and a hint of vanilla framed by just the right amount of acidity.

Another nice B.C. interpretation of the grape is Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2006 ($25, available through the winery, http://www.bovwine.ca). Medium full-bodied and creamy, it offers up notes of peach and orange, with hints of roasted nuts and minerals, finishing with crisp acidity.

Turning to the aforementioned southern Rhône, I can say it's no secret that the region has had a couple of great vintages, most notably 2005, but also 2004, a much-overlooked harvest. One fine, reasonably affordable example of the latter is André Brunel Domaine de L'Enclos Côtes-du-Rhône 2004 ($16.85 in Ontario, No. 040972). Released a few months ago through Vintages in Ontario, it's still available in decent quantities. This is not a heavyweight. It's a medium-bodied red with a silky, polished texture and pure, fresh flavours of cherry, lavender and thyme. Great for a range of food, from roast chicken to stews to ham sandwiches.

Last week's Vintages release in Ontario featured some decent, well-priced whites, including Ingoldby Chardonnay 2006 from Australia ($14.85, No. 047647). It delivers the kind of crowd-friendly profile we've come to expect from barrel-aged Australian chardonnay, brimming with toasty pineapple and stone fruits, counterbalanced by zippy acidity and nicely integrated oak.

In a completely different style is Domaine de L'Aumonier Le Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ($13.85, No. 062307). There's relatively good weight to this crisp white from France's Loire Valley, best known for the more expensive sauvignon blancs of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. It's rather plump, with flavours of gooseberry, grass and citrus and crisp acidity.

Much racier is Dog Point Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2006 from New Zealand ($21.80, No. 677450). It won't be to all tastes, with its pronounced wet-grass, vegetative flavours, but there's plenty of complementary ripe fruit here in the form of grapefruit and gooseberry in this loud, proud kiwi white.

Pick of the week

Mission Hill Family Estate

Reserve Chardonnay 2005 ($21.99 B.C. product No. 651315).

This Okanagan chardonnay

from celebrated winemaker John Simes is full-bodied and structured around silky tropical fruit and well-integrated oak.