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Hello wattle-seed vodka and good-for-you booze

BEPPI CROSARIOL | Columnist profile | E-mail
From Wednesday's Globe and Mail

Chefs can say the darnedest things. According to a recent survey of 1,282 culinary professionals polled by the U.S. National Restaurant Association, here are some of the top things we'll be sipping more of in 2008: craft beer; energy-drink cocktails; martinis; seasonal brews such as fruit and spice beers; mojitos; Belgian-style Lambic beers; India pale ales and other hoppy-tasting beers; organic wine, and wheat beers.

Detect a theme? All I can say is it must be getting hot in America's restaurant kitchens, because beer is clearly top of mind with chefs these days.

Not that they're wrong. Premium, craft-brewed beers of all stripes will certainly be more popular this year than ever, with traditional suds from the brewing behemoths continuing to beat a slow retreat.

But permit me to offer a supplementary list. Announcing the trendy tipples of 2008:

VODKA, VODKA

AND MORE VODKA

No surprise there, of course. And as much as I would like to see an ebb in the vodka tide, there will be no such thing. New sales will be driven by ever-more-offbeat flavourings as distillers raid the tropical-produce aisles and spice racks.

Small, niche producers are creating infusions based on saffron, tarragon and kaffir lime. Look for such brands as Sub Rosa soon at a liquor board near you. Other, wackier flavours on the horizon include mojito mint and Australian wattle seed, already available in foreign markets.

The next big, mainstream product will be Absolut Mango, proving it can take a while for those sharp-minded MBAs at the spirits companies to discover the world's second most popular fruit. Absolut's entry follows Finlandia Mango Fusion, already in many Canadian stores. Prediction: The next big sissy cocktail will be the mango mojito. I'd bet a good bottle of gin on it.

GIN LOSES ITS

NEXT-BIG-THING STATUS

Speaking of gin, will 2008 be the year gin finally becomes the new vodka?

Don't bet on it.

The spirit that could be called the original-flavoured vodka (that's what gin essentially is) won't gain much ground, despite rumblings to the contrary.

According to the Liquor Control Board of Ontario website, three excellent brands are about to be discontinued, South from New Zealand, Citadelle from France and Broker's from London.

Those chefs cited above know what they're talking about: Almost one-third of those polled ranked gin as

passé.THE HUNT FOR

FRENCH REDS

The big wine trend this year will be the global hunt for newly arriving reds from the great 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhône Valley.

Wine aficionados will be tempted to overspend on the wines from that year.

"Two thousand and five is going to bankrupt most collectors," said Dave Hopgood, portfolio manager of European wines for the British Columbia Liquor Distribution Branch.

Mr. Hopgood is planning his largest single-category release ever on Oct. 4, with 6,500 cases of barrel-matured 2005 Bordeaux (the previous record was 3,500 cases). "The wines are so complete and so generous," he said of the selections, typically blends of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. "Bordeaux will bankrupt people if Burgundy doesn't do it first."

Faster-maturing red Burgundies, based on the more delicate pinot noir grape, have already been streaming onto shelves.

Mr. Hopgood predicts that one of France's most famous reds from Bordeaux, Château Pétrus, could reach $2,000 a bottle. That said, he added many of the premium wines to be released in October will retail for as low as $25.

Mr. Hopgood's favourite bargain-basement 2005 Bordeaux red is already available in British Columbia: Château Le Marquisat La Pérouse, at just $9.99. "It tastes like 15 bucks," he said. "It's delicious."

RHÔNE ROARS

Look for Rhône Valley wines to capture a wider audience in 2005. As its top wine of the year, the influential U.S. magazine Wine Spectator recently chose Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005. The entire southern Rhône, and in particular the districts of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras, has been hugely undervalued by wine consumers. But they seem to be getting the message, especially with the 2005 vintage, when abundant sunshine ripened the grapes to near perfection.

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