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When malbec, Argentina's signature grape, showed up in the Mendoza region around the mid-19th century, it was the proverbial European immigrant, fleeing hard times and dreaming of a better future. And that's what it found.

Malbec had already begun its slow, steady fall from grace in western France, where it had been a dominant variety in the Loire Valley and even Bordeaux. The rustic red grape still figures prominently in a few low-profile districts, notably Cahors, but today malbec is pretty much France's vinifera-non-grata.

This is for two reasons. In Bordeaux and in the Loire Valley, in particular, it rarely tasted very good. Short on fruit flavour, it also happens to be vulnerable to disease and frost. That's two big strikes against any grape in the modern wine business, sort of like a tin-eared musician who never shows up on time for a gig.

But, to stretch the musical metaphor, like many black American jazz musicians who decamped to Paris to find a haven for their music in the 1940s and 50s, malbec crossed the pond and found its groove in the land of the tango. In the high altitudes and dry conditions of many of Argentina's vineyards, the grape was transformed. Even the clusters look clearly better suited to winemaking, with smaller berries and a higher skin-to-juice ratio, which imparts more flavour, cellar-ability and tannic structure.

The result is a drink that might be described as merlot in blue jeans, medium full-bodied, with the rich, plum-like fruit core of merlot but an earthy, slightly gritty character. If you're a Bordeaux fan, think of a good Saint-Émilion, though perhaps without the tidy, elegant structure - a better partner for saucy, braised meats as opposed to roast beef.

Several nice examples of this increasingly fashionable grape are on display today in Ontario as part of a South American-themed Vintages release. For the money, among the better choices is Famiglia Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Select Malbec 2005 ($14.85, product No. 055459). It hails from Patagonia, a region tucked down in the extreme south of the country. Cooler, because of Antarctic influences, than the famed Mendoza region to the north, the Patagonia nonetheless yields full-flavoured wines and is blessed with strong winds that keep the rot at bay. The Famiglia Schroeder is full-bodied and amply endowed with plum and red berry flavour, evolving into an attractively herbal finish.

Another good example, though more expensive, is Familia Mayol Cuatro Primos 2003 from Mendoza ($23.75, No. 055434). It's a blend of 55-per-cent malbec, with syrah, cabernet sauvignon and Argentina's lesser-known specialty grape, bonarda. The 35-per-cent syrah component announces itself with a licorice-like note over the ample, rich fruit. The wine is big and ripe, at 14.6-per-cent alcohol, yet finishes with juicy acidity.

More widely available, as part of the Liquor Control Board of Ontario's regular, permanent listings, is Pascual Toso Malbec 2006 ($12.85, No. 035170), which has been selling briskly. It sure is a crowd pleaser, almost sweet, with a creamy texture and flavours of Kahlua, chocolate cake, plum and herbs.

The big head-turner among the Argentine selections in today's Vintages release, though, isn't a malbec. It's a tempranillo, the Spanish red grape best known for making Rioja. Both tempranillo and the Italian grape sangiovese to my mind make wine nowhere more compelling outside their home countries than in Argentina. Typically more fruity than their European counterparts, they still exude hints of earthiness that make them so compelling.

Finca el Retiro Tempranillo Reserva Especial 2004 ($14.85, No. 057216) telegraphs its richness with an opaque, inky-purple hue and follows through on the palate with luscious, thick fruit that comes across as almost edible, buttressed by juicy acidity.

Among the non-Argentine highlight from today's Vintages release is Parri Estate Shiraz Viognier 2005 ($17.80, No. 048488). There is a truckload of wine in this full-bodied Australian, leading off with suggestions of cured meat (think of peppery salami) and a panoply of spices. Terrific.

Also a good value - for a pinot noir - is De Bortoli Gulf Station Pinot Noir 2006 ($19.80, No. 015511). Medium-bodied and decidedly fruity rather than earthy, with plenty of jammy berries, it finishes with some lifting spice.

From Chile, a top choice is Perez Cruz Syrah Reserva 2005 ($24.75, No. 589812). There's plenty of cured meat in this one too, accented by licorice, eucalyptus and spices.

And the standout from France is Château d'Aiguilhe Comtes de Neipperg 2004 ($38.70, No. 670919). An impressive red Bordeaux from the Côtes de Castillon, east of Saint-Émilion, it shows rich blackberry and cassis, with intriguing notes of fresh herb, minerals and spice and some grip coming from the fine-grained tannins.

Among the white selections is a good offering from Niagara, Featherstone Old Vines Riesling 2006 ($16.85, No. 064584). Pear and a blast of red apple get a nice follow-up from citrus flavours and crisp acidity.

A long-time favourite Italian white, Bollini Pinot Grigio ($16.85, No. 951319) delivers lots of weight and flavour in its 2005 vintage, with good citrus intensity and excellent balance.

Also decent is Richard Hamilton Almond Grove Chardonnay 2006 from Australia ($16.85, No. 741099). Full-bodied, with notes of sweet lemon, moderate toasty oak and a fresh finish.

Pick of the week

Finca el Retiro Tempranillo Reserva Especial 2004 ($14.85, No. 057216) telegraphs its richness with an opaque, inky-purple hue and follows through on the palate with luscious, thick fruit that comes across as almost edible.