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This is not a traditional Burns Night dinner but a take on modern Scottish food, which is light-years ahead of what you might imagine. Scotland has great fish and shellfish, which is exported all over Europe to the point where not much actually stays in Scotland.

The Scots always had a French background in their food prep because of the close alliance between Scotland and France, and although Scottish food has received a bad rap, food in the homes was always outstanding. The Scots never went out to eat so the restaurants withered. Today, it is a different story as restaurants win awards and the excellent local produce, meat and fish are highlighted.

Burns Night is always a great celebration and much whisky is consumed. Instead of using wine for this dinner, place bottles of Scotch on the table and drink a dram with each course.

To make this a true Burns Night, I would buy a haggis and serve it as a first course with the whisky poured over it. This menu serves four, but the more the merrier on Burns Night. Double everything except the cheesecake.

LEEK SOUP

Cock-a-leekie soup is a standard Burns Night presentation. Here is a more complex version.

what you need

5 cups chicken stock

2 leeks, white part only

6 ounces ground chicken

½ cup finely chopped leek leaves

½ teaspoon garlic

2 teaspoons fresh tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons finely chopped prunes

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

What you do

Combine chicken, leek leaves, garlic, tarragon, prunes and mustard. Season well with salt and pepper. Using a heaping 1 teaspoon measure, roll into small chicken balls. Cook one to taste for seasoning. Reseason if necessary.

Bring soup to boil on medium-high heat, reduce heat to simmer and add remaining leeks and chicken balls. Simmer for 4 to 5 minutes or until chicken balls are cooked through. Ladle into 4 soup bowls and sprinkle with a little parsley. Serves 4.

SHRIMP AND PEA RISOTTO

Yes risotto - a favourite dish in Scotland among the better restaurants. There, it would be cooked with large juicy prawns just fished out of the loch, but large shrimp or baby lobster tails work beautifully.

Serve a green salad on the side.

What you need

¼ cup butter

1 pound large shrimp, peeled

1 cup chopped onion

2 cups carnaroli or Arborio rice

½ cup white wine

4 to 5 cups hot chicken stock

1 cup green peas, fresh

or frozen defrosted

2 tablespoons chopped

parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in pot over medium heat. Add shrimp and sauté for 2 minutes or until partly cooked. Remove from butter and add onions. Sauté for 2 minutes, add rice and sauté 2 minutes longer or until rice is coated with butter.

Pour in wine and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer vigorously until wine practically disappears, then add stock about 1 cup at a time. As stock is absorbed, add another cup, stirring frequently. After 15 minutes or when rice is still a little hard, stir in shrimp and peas. Cook 5 minutes longer, adding more stock or until rice is al dente. Remove from heat and stir in parsley and remaining butter. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and pepper as needed. Serves 4.

Tablet

Tablet is Scottish fudge. It is deliciously decadent and rich. You can buy regular fudge to make this, but if you want to try the Scottish version, here is the recipe.

What you need

¼ cup unsalted butter

2 cups packed brown sugar

½ cup milk

Pinch salt

½ cup condensed milk

What you do

Butter an 8-by-8 pan and line with parchment paper. In a heavy pot, combine butter, sugar, milk and salt. Bring to boil on medium-high heat, reduce heat slightly and simmer rapidly for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often.

Add condensed milk. Continue to simmer, but stir constantly - this is very important as it helps it to set properly.

Remove from heat and test for setting. Drop a small spoonful into a bowl of cold water. It should form a soft ball. Boil a little longer if it is not quite set.

Remove from heat and immediately beat with an electric mixer for about 4 to 5 minutes or until mixture becomes opaque and a little grainy. Pour quickly into prepared tin. This amount is correct for the following recipe.

Foveran Tablet Cheesecake

I stayed in the Foveran Hotel in the Orkney, a delightful little hotel with a good restaurant. This confection is their most popular dessert. The recipe is adapted from A Cook's Tour of Scotland by Sue Lawrence.

What you need

250 grams oat biscuits crumbled, about 2 cups

1/3 cup butter, melted

1 250-gram package cream cheese

250 grams tablet or other fudge

1 ½ cups whipping cream

What you do

Lightly butter a 9-inch spring form pan. Line with parchment paper on the base. In the food processor, add cookies and butter and process until combined. Press into the base of the prepared tin. Beat the cream cheese until soft with electric beaters. Grate fudge on a box grater and stir into cream cheese. Whip cream until it holds stiff peaks. Fold into cream-cheese mixture.

Spoon into the biscuit base, smoothing the top, and chill for at least 6 hours before serving. Serves 4 with lots of leftovers for breakfast.