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Gin drinkers, meet your Grey Goose.

If the shrewd salespeople behind the hot-selling luxury vodka were to conjure up a premium gin, I'm sure it would resemble Citadelle Gin ($38.95 in Ontario; $32.25 in Quebec). For starters, Citadelle shares three key characteristics with the soaring goose's winning formula: a tall and imposingly heavy Bordeaux-styled bottle with a blue label, a steep price (which snobby drinkers automatically associate with quality) and a French pedigree. In fact, both products are distilled in small batches in traditional copper pots in the Cognac region of France, famous for the world's most coveted brandies.

Marketing considerations aside, the drink is excellent. Citadelle is made by the Cognac house Ferrand. Unlike Grey Goose -- which is a relatively new spirit that got its name from a scrapped U.S. wine-marketing project -- Citadelle has its roots in the 18th century. It's a revival brand based on a 1771 recipe concocted in Dunkirk in the northernmost tip of France, then a budding centre of the gin trade.

The brand's pitch claims it uses more so-called botanical infusions than any other gin, 19 to be exact, including savoury, cumin, violet root, almond and fennel. That compares with 10 for the popular Bombay Sapphire. It's full-bodied (at 44-per-cent alcohol) and complex enough to enjoy at room temperature, though it's much better in an ice-cold dry martini. We're talking classic, assertive gin flavour here, led by a wallop of juniper followed by a complex and nuanced mid-palate, finishing with a peppery kick.

With Citadelle, the revitalized gin market comes full circle. It stands in stark contrast to the trendy, New Age gins making a splash nowadays, such as Hendrick's and Tanqueray No. Ten. Both of these $40 spirits, which I also like but for different reasons, are crafted in a smooth, rounded style. Hendrick's is decidedly restrained, with its uncommon infusions of cucumber and roses, and Tanqueray No. Ten is unique for its use of fresh, rather than dried, plants and fruits (it also tastes faintly sweet and not at all like a classic London Dry style of gin).

One almost gets the sense these fruity gins were crafted for flavoured-vodka lovers. If you're a dry-gin traditionalist, you might want to take Citadelle for a spin in your martini shaker.

Turning to wine, let's move from France to Spain for some red values. Torres Atrium Merlot 2004 ($16, product No. 621755; $15.85 in B.C.) is a fine new offering from one of Spain's biggest and best-known producers. Clean and modern, it's medium full-bodied and dry, with a subtly grainy texture. Bright flavours of cherry, cranberry and plum get a lift from cedar, tobacco, licorice and spice. This is a versatile red, good for chicken, steak, pizza or even on its own as a party wine.

Another decent buy, particularly if you're a fan of soft, ripe and almost raisiny reds, is Finca Antiqua 2002 ($13, No. 613042). Medium-bodied and velvety, this blend of tempranillo (60 per cent), cabernet sauvignon and merlot (20 per cent each) starts almost sweet, with a rounded frame and well-integrated fine tannins, then finishes dry and spicy. It would be nice with burgers.

The other Spanish wine I want to mention is available only in Ontario by the 12-bottle case direct from the importer John Hanna & Sons Ltd. (visit http://www.winetrader.ca or call 1-800-337-7043). It's called Vina Herminia Rioja 2004 ($16.95). This 100-per-cent tempranillo is a remarkable value and comes from an estate belonging to the Luis Caballero group of companies, which also owns the superb sherry maker Emilio Lustau. It's no surprise that the winemaker, David Morrison, is Australian, given the wine's Aussie-style richness, freshness and supple mouth feel. Medium full-bodied, polished and modern, it's got a silky texture and offers up notes of black cherry, plum, licorice and spices. Terrific.

Let's conclude with a white-wine value released last month in Ontario: Camelot Chardonnay 2004 ($13.95, No. 685818). It's from the people behind the big Kendall-Jackson brand, and shows exceptional balance and harmony for the money. Medium full-bodied and round, it's brimming with ripe mango and pineapple flavours, complemented by nicely integrated toasty oak and bright acidity. It would perfect to sip all on its own, or with roast chicken, salmon or even popcorn.

bcrosariol@globeandmail.com

Pick of the week

Citadelle Gin ($38.95 in Ontario; $32.25 in Quebec) has a classic, assertive flavour, led by a wallop of juniper followed by a complex mid-palate, finishing with a peppery kick.