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Business pundits like to describe China as the waking giant, poised to change the economics of just about everything. Well, the wine world has its own China. It's called Argentina.

Already the world's fifth-largest producer, the South American nation has historically consumed the vast majority of what it made. But lately Argentina has begun looking at foreign markets for growth. With neighbouring Chile as its model, the South American juggernaut has been plowing money into new equipment and expertise, shifting away from domestically popular jug wine to estate-bottled, premium varietals aimed at adventurous drinkers such as us in North America.

The revolution is palpable already in all those $8-to-$12 reds based on malbec, Argentina's signature grape and something of a fashion beverage among budget-wine cognoscenti. But if the rustic edge of malbec is not your thing, fear not. Argentina has lots more up its sleeve. Most notably, as with Chile, it is working wonders with the world's most popular red grape, cabernet sauvignon.

Best of all, Argentina has yet to be plagued by the two diseases that have sent prices for Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon soaring into the stratosphere, exorbitant land costs and smug arrogance. Superb and cellar-worthy Argentine cabernets can still be had for less than $20. A great example, currently available in Alberta and Ontario, is Saurus Patagonia Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 from the excellent producer Famiglia Schroeder ($13.85 at Vintages in Ontario, product No. 061986).

It hails, as the name indicates, from the southern Patagonia region, once known, alternately, as the end of the world, because of its remote location, and as the land of giants, because of mythical stories of tall, indigenous people supposedly encountered by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

End of the world, perhaps, but this full-bodied red has more than a little in common with fine red Bordeaux from Medoc, with mouth-filling flavours of dark-skinned fruits, cedar, vanilla and coffee, all woven together on a mesh of bracing acidity and sweet tannins. To my mind, the Saurus is the best of five Argentine cabernet sauvignons released today through Ontario Vintages stores.

The name Saurus, by the way, was inspired by the fossilized remains of a huge dinosaur found on the vineyard property. Land of giants indeed.

Two other standout cabs from the Vintages release hail from the land of giant cabernet prices: California. Very impressive is Rodney Strong Alden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($39.80, No. 599795). It's a single-vineyard release from a very good producer in the northern Alexander Valley, delivering full-throttle flavours of cassis, blackberry, cedar and spice, accented by nuances of earth and pipe tobacco. Slosh it around in a decanter or your glass to help to bring out the fruit and to soften the slightly gritty, angular tannins. Better, lay it in the cellar for 10 years. Its good baby brother, Rodney Strong Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon, is available in British Columbia ($24.99, No. 226944).

The other beauty from the Vintages release is Dominus ($90.95, No. 063057), the widely collected cult Napa red from Christian Moueix of the famous Bordeaux estate of Chateau Petrus. Big and warm, this powerful blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot is typically introverted at first, then opens up after a few swirls, revealing concentrated notes of cherry and herbs. It, too, would make a good candidate for 10 years of cellaring and probably last nicely for 20.

Of the two Australian reds worthy of note in today's Vintages release in Ontario, my favourite is Brokenwood Sangiovese 2005 ($20.85, No. 683797). While many California winemakers are trying their hand at sangiovese, Tuscany's great red grape, I'm betting there's a brighter future for the grape in the Southern Hemisphere, specifically Australia and Argentina. Though not quite exhibiting the compelling earthiness of a Chianti, this medium full-bodied red from a standout producer in McLaren Vale shows a ripe, chewy cherry quality with very good balancing acidity and warm depth, with none of the confected quality that plagues so many California examples.

Also good is Kaesler Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($30.85, No. 004200). From the Barossa Valley, better known for shiraz, this whopping cab weighs in at 15-per-cent alcohol and is packed with dark fruit, cherry and espresso flavours and accents of smoke and tobacco. In British Columbia, look for the very good Kaesler Stonehorse Grenach Syrah Mourvedre 2004 ($27.74, No. 25841) or Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz 2004 ($39.64, No. 46656).

Among whites, don't miss two stellar offerings from an excellent Niagara producer. 13th Street Funk Vineyard Riesling 2005 ($18, No. 056564) is ripe and brimming with apple and citrus, finishing perfectly dry with a bolt of electric acidity.

More exotic in flavour is 13th Street Sandstone Vineyard Déchêné Chardonnay Musqu é 2006 ($19, No. 066209). The bouquet is more floral than a funeral home and the flavour brimming with flowers, table grape, peach and apples. Though not to all tastes, it's quite compelling and should pair nicely with aromatic Indian dishes.

Pick of the week

Saurus Patagonia Select Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($13.85 at Vintages in Ontario, product No. 061986). This full-bodied red has mouth-filling flavours of dark-skinned fruits, cedar, vanilla and coffee, all woven together on a mesh of bracing acidity and sweet tannins.