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Farmer's markets have long been community gathering places. It's a chance to meet your neighbours, catch up on a little gossip and spend a tranquil hour or two. I visited two markets in Toronto this week, at Riverdale Farm and Trinity Bellwoods Park, where I loaded up on produce, meat and fish. Then I came home to make a meal from the bounty. As far as I'm concerned, it's the best way to shop: with no agenda, and perhaps a recipe or two in mind for a menu that's inspired by whatever is in season. Flexibility is the key.

Hanna Jacobs of Matchbox Organics (http://www.matchboxgarden.ca) in Toronto typifies the dedication of today's organic grower. Trained as a chef, she worked in Oregon, where she experienced first-hand the passion many young people put into growing their own produce.

She and her two partners launched their five small urban market gardens three years ago and today they raise enough vegetables and perennial herbs to support them at three farmers' markets in Toronto. "It's not easy but it is a work of love," she says.

Many restaurants are taking advantage of farmers' markets. Recently, I attended a wonderful dinner at C5 at the ROM in Toronto, which was billed as "Green Gastronomy" and featured many of the city's market vendors and their produce matched with Henry of Pelham wines. Across the country, urban farmers' markets are reaching critical mass, in the process helping family operations stay in business but also putting healthier food on our plates. So check your province's farmer's market web site for listings, and dig in to the season's best.

Here is the menu I served.

SMOKED LAKE TROUT SALAD

Akiwenzie's Fish & More (akiwenzie@bmts.com) is a small First Nations family business based in Wiarton, Ont., where they catch their own lake fish in Georgian Bay, smoke it that night and bring it directly to the market. It is moist and delicious. Paired with spicy greens from the Quinte Organic collective (http://www.quinteorganic.ca) and radishes from Matchbox Organics, this a sensational salad.

What you need

Dressing:

¼ teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon honey

¼ cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Salad:

8 cups spicy lettuce mix

4 radishes thinly sliced

2 slivered green onions

10 ounces (300 grams) smoked lake trout, flaked

What you do

Whisk together mustard, lemon juice and honey then whisk in olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Toss together the lettuce, radishes and green onions. Place on individual serving plates, Drizzle with dressing. Garnish with trout.

PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH MARKET VEGETABLES

The vegetables used with this dish will change as the summer goes on and new produce becomes available. I chose organic chicken breasts from Beretta Foods (http://www.berettaorganics.com) and the vegetables were a selection of the best looking from various farmers'stalls including matchbox and Greenfields Organic Farm (http://www.greenfieldsfarm.ca).

What you need

¼ cup chopped basil

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

3 tablespoons olive oil

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon butter

1 bunch small carrots, scrubbed, 1-inch tops left on

1 cup shelled peas

What you do

Combine basil, garlic and lemon rind. Stir in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Brush on breasts. Season with salt and pepper.

Heat remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add breasts and sear for about 2 minutes a side. Toss carrots in pan, cover and let simmer for 10 minutes or until juices run clear (depending on size of breasts). Remove cover. Remove chicken and carrots and add chicken stock to pan. Bring to boil, scraping up any browned bits. Scatter in peas and heat through. Serve chicken and carrots with pan juices and peas. Serves 4.

SAUTÉED SWISS CHARD

I ran into chef Jason Inniss from Toronto's Amuse Bouche restaurant and he suggested this recipe for Swiss chard.

What you need

1 bunch Swiss chard

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 cup chopped onion

½ teaspoon chopped garlic

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do Bring a pot of water to boil. Add chard and blanch for 1 minute. Drain and cool with cold water. If the leaves are large, coarsely chop otherwise leave whole. And if stems are thick, sauté with the onions.

Heat olive oil and butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add onion and sauté for 2 minutes or until softened. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute. Add chard and sauté until coated in oil. Cover pan and cook another 2 minutes or until chard is tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serves 4.

NEW POTATOES WITH MINT

I bought freshly dug new potatoes with some of the dirt still clinging to them. Lightly boil, add a little mint and butter and what could be better?

What you need

1 pound new potatoes, scrubbed

3 tablespoons butter

¼ cup mint leaves, torn

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Place potatoes in pot of cold water and bring to boil. Boil for 10 minutes or until tender. Drain well and break open with a fork. Add butter and mint. Season with salt and pepper.

FRESH BERRIES WITH RICOTTA AND HONEY CREAM

There are so many wonderful berries at the market right now. I found Saskatoons, black raspberries, golden raspberries, mulberries, cherries and blueberries, many grown by Peter Wylie, a hobby farmer who brings them to the market after his office day job. Ruth Klahsen from Monforte Dairy (http://www.monfortedairy.com) produces a beautiful sheep's-milk ricotta and also a crème fraîche. Mixing the two together makes a sensational dessert topping.

what you need

4 cups mixed berries and pitted cherries

2 tablespoons sugar

½ cup ricotta

¼ cup crème fraîche, or more to taste

2 tablespoons honey

What you do

Combine mixed berries and cherries with sugar. Let sit for 30 minutes before using.

Mix ricotta, crème fraîche and honey. Place berries in a glass and top with ricotta mixture. Or you can layer berries, then ricotta cream, then more berries, and finish with ricotta cream. Serves 4.