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Pick of the week

Chateau Pesquié Terrasses 2005 ($14.95, No. 652313). Full-bodied and rich with blackberry-plum fruit, it weighs in at a mere 14-per-cent alcohol and offers up juicy-fresh acidity and a hint of black pepper. It's a fine choice for many red-meat dishes.

Who's more California: British Columbia or Ontario? Government liquor stores in both provinces are waving the Golden State flag this month, encouraged by a new wine and tourism campaign aimed at Canadians.

Endorsed by the governor himself, Arnold Schwarzenegger, the Sunshine in a Glass promo builds on the premise that if Canadians like the vino, they'll want to visit the place - and of course flex their pumped-up Canadian dollars in hotels, restaurants and surf-wear shops.

Before I make the Governator's day by showcasing some highlights from the California wine aisles, let me offer an answer to the question above: France.

Yes, it was a trick question. After previewing today's Vintages release of fine wines in Ontario, I conclude the best performance in a California-wine role this month is, in fact, French. Its name: Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005 ($45.95, product No. 070888), a buxom and fruity red worthy of the slogan "sunshine in a glass."

Evidence of the hot, sunny summer of 2005 in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape district of the southern Rhone Valley is right there on the label: 16.3-per-cent alcohol.

By comparison, some spirit-fortified wines from France and Spain actually contain less alcohol.

As a wine fan, you probably know sunshine translates into grape sweetness.

More solar exposure means more sugar, which in turn means yeasts will produce more alcohol.

Many people who prefer lighter wines tend to criticize sunny California for the alcohol surge in recent years. Yet it's happening also in France, where winemakers are letting grapes hang longer on the vine in autumn to yield higher sugar levels and wines that are the darlings of influential critics.

I'm not the first commentator to like the Clos Saint Jean 2005. It's already garnered a glowing review (and high score of 93 out of 100) from U.S. critic Robert Parker, not one to shy away from high alcohol. Parker loves wines like Actor Arnold used to like cars, Hummer-sized. (As governor, Schwarzenegger now favours hybrids, I believe.)

One can't help but be impressed by the wine, either for or despite its girth. Full-bodied and rich as you would expect, it's more like a luxury-edition Hummer with a velvet interior and soft suspension.

The ride is pretty smooth, with sweet black-cherry fruit held together on a frame of fine, chewy tannins accented by notes of black pepper and licorice. Though Californian in size, it still betrays a savoury French-ness.

And though expensive, I'd say it's worth the money, especially if you can lay it down for six to eight years.

One of the best values of today's Ontario release also comes from France, in fact the same region. Call it a mini-me Clos Saint Jean. Chateau Pesquié Terrasses 2005 ($14.95, No. 652313). Full-bodied and rich with blackberry-plum fruit, it weighs in at a mere 14-per-cent alcohol and offers up juicy-fresh acidity and a hint of black pepper.

Not immensely complex and certainly not as cellar-worthy as the Châteauneuf, it's a fine choice for many red-meat dishes.

A very good California red currently available in many parts of the country, including British Columbia and Quebec, is one I mentioned a couple of weeks back. Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($37.65 in Ontario). I had been curious, if not skeptical, about this iconic Napa Valley winery's prospects after its takeover by the world's biggest wine company, Constellation Brands, and this 2005 vintage of its flagship red is heartening, maintaining its hallmark subtlety and elegance and great complexity for the money.

The best California wine released today in Ontario, Caymus Special Selection 2005 ($155.95, No. 711663) is hard to find elsewhere in the country with the possible exception of a couple of private Alberta stores. One of the state's most consistent cult cabernet sauvignons, it delivers good concentration and complexity in this 2005 vintage.

From one of the state's leading merlot producers, Duckhorn Merlot 2005 ($62.95, No. 992529), shows concentrated cherry-blackberry and notes of cedar and tobacco, with a hint of spice and perfect acidity. The good 2004 vintage is available in Quebec ($63).

Virtually sold out in British Columbia but making its appearance today in Ontario is an excellent rendition of California's signature grape, Seghesio Home Ranch Zinfandel ($45.95, No. 070391). Dark chocolate and cigar tobacco ooze out of the dense, ripe, dark-skinned fruit in this voluptuously chunky red. Good ripeness and acidity here without the raisin-and-vinegar whiplash of lesser zins. A good red for grilled steak.

One of California's earliest organic-grape wineries excels with Frog's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($52.95, No. 932400). Ripe yet showing in a relatively tame 13.6-per-cent alcohol, this full-bodied red offers up a nice hint of funky barnyard, creamy tannins and hints of olive and cassis. Ready to drink, though it could age a few years.

A good California buy, though still not cheap, is Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 ($19.95, No. 073817; $27.99 in B.C., though the vintage may vary). If not immensely complex, it's full-bodied and smooth, with a cassis-chocolate core and hints of dried herbs.

And one of the more pleasant surprises I've tasted from California lately is Greg Norman California Estates Pinot Noir 2006 ($23.95, No. 687988). Yes, Greg Norman, whose California venture has so far not received the same level of praise from critics as his more established Australian wines. And yes, a good California pinot for less than $25.

It's medium-bodied and brimming with fresh berries and notes of cola, coffee, cured meat and a touch of spicy wood.

Good flavour harmony and balance, with a nice crisp backbone of acidity. If there were space for a second pick of the week, this would be it.