Wild leeks are the first sign of spring

Lucy Waverman

LUCY WAVERMAN

At last, farmers markets and even some grocery stores are beginning to carry Ontario's wild forest products - a sure sign that spring is here. Despite the long winter, wild leeks are abundant right now and fiddleheads and morels will soon appear. Here are some spring recipes for a special dinner featuring these early treasures.

WILD LEEK AND GOAT CHEESE STRUDEL

Wild leeks are a magical green because the fragile little bulbs are packed with so much flavour. You can eat them raw or cooked and they are delightful with chicken or fish. They sprout under maple trees - I have tried to grow them in our garden, but with little success. They self-seed, so you should pick judiciously because once you pull them, they don't return. I picked too many last year and now have none left!

If you cannot find wild leeks, substitute 2 ounces (60 grams) thinly slivered regular leeks, white and light green part only.

What you need

4 ounces (125 grams) goat cheese

3 tablespoons whipping cream

¼ teaspoon grated lemon rind

¼ cup grated Parmesan

¼ cup chopped pistachio nuts

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 sheets phyllo pastry

¼ cup melted butter

2 bunches wild leeks, trimmed and cut in half

Salt and freshly ground pepper

What you do

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Combine goat cheese, whipping cream, lemon rind, Parmesan and pistachio nuts in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve.

Cover leaves of phyllo with a slightly damp dish towel. Place first sheet on a flat surface and brush with melted butter. Place second sheet on top, butter and top with remaining sheet of phyllo. Cut phyllo stack into two 8-x-12-inch pieces.

Spread half of goat cheese mixture onto the bottom third of each phyllo stack, leaving a 1-inch border around the sides and bottom edge. Lay leeks across goat cheese. Roll over once to hide leeks, butter exposed phyllos, fold in ends and continue to roll.

Place strudel seam side down on a buttered baking sheet and brush with butter. Repeat with remaining phyllo stack and filling. Use a sharp knife to cut 3 long evenly spaced slits on the diagonal across the top of each strudel.

Bake for 15 minutes or until phyllo is browned. Using the slits as a guide, cut each strudel into 4 pieces. Serve with the herb salad. Serves 4 to 8, depending on appetite.

HERB SALAD

Local baby lettuces are perfect for this simple spring salad, but for ease add some to the packaged mixed herb salad that is available in produce sections. Toss in fresh tarragon, chervil and basil for a flavour hit.

what you need

4 cups mixed lettuce and herbs

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

What you do

Place salad greens in a large bowl. Whisk together lemon juice and olive oil in a separate bowl to make dressing.

Toss greens with dressing, season with salt and pepper and serve with strudel. Serves 4.

FIERY FIDDLEHEADS

WITH PENNE

Fiddleheads have a nutty flavour that works beautifully with pasta and Asian stir-fries as well as making them good side dishes for fish and chicken.

Fiddleheads must be rinsed in about 4 changes of water to remove any brown skin or dirt. Cut off the stem so that the fiddlehead is completely round.

Wash well and then blanch in boiling water for about 2 to 3 minutes. They are then ready to incorporate in most recipes. If fiddleheads are unavailable, use 1 pound (500 grams) asparagus cut into pieces.

The stir-fried greens can be mixed with pasta for a first course or served alone as a side dish.

What you need

4 ounces (125 grams) dried penne

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 cups fiddleheads, trimmed, washed and blanched

¼ cup chopped oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

1½ teaspoons minced anchovies

½ teaspoon chili flakes (or to taste)

½ teaspoon chopped garlic

¼ cup grated Pecorino cheese

What you do

Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add penne and boil for 9 to 12 minutes or until al dente. Drain, reserving ¼ cup pasta water.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in skillet and add fiddleheads, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies, chili flakes and garlic. Toss everything together for 2 to 3 minutes or until fiddleheads are crisp-tender and have lots of flavour.

Add penne to pan and toss to combine. If mixture is too dry, add 2 tablespoons of reserved pasta cooking water and a little extra olive oil, if desired.

Sprinkle with grated Pecorino cheese.

Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 as a main course.

RHUBARB TIRAMISU TRIFLE

This easy takeoff on the tiramisu method makes for a fresh tasting spring dessert. Serve in martini glasses.

what you need

1 pound (500 grams) cooked rhubarb, cut into 1-inch lengths

¼ cup sugar

4 ounces (125 grams) lady fingers (about 18 cookies), broken into pieces

¼ cup orange liqueur

½ cup orange juice

1 cup mascarpone

¼ cup whipping cream

½ cup chopped white chocolate, melted

1 teaspoon grated orange rind

Shaved white chocolate to garnish

What you do

Place rhubarb and sugar in a skillet over medium heat.

Simmer for about 4 minutes or until rhubarb is tender. Set aside to cool.

Place lady fingers in a bowl. Combine orange liqueur and orange juice and pour over lady fingers. Let stand until lady fingers are crumbly.

Whisk together mascarpone and whipping cream. Stir in melted white chocolate and grated orange rind.

Layer lady finger crumbs, mascarpone mixture and rhubarb in a martini glass, and repeat layers.

Sprinkle with shaved white chocolate.

Serves 4.

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