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This being Pride Week in Toronto, I am contemplating same-sex unions in the beverage world. So far, I've identified one: the marriage four years ago between John Molson and Adolph Coors.

At the time, pinstriped suits involved in the cross-border consolidation between the brewers kept spinning that old chestnut "merger of equals." Nationalists in this country, fearing that Canadian culture and - even worse - beer would be watered down in the deal, were moderately assuaged.

But ever since, it seems to me, Molson Canadian has ceased being the iconic Canada Day beverage. So, what to drink on July 1?

A microbrew might be nice. But which and from what province? Two of my current favourites, the robust and manfully bitter Black Oak Pale Ale ($11.95 per six-pack, No. 547430) and Old Credit Amber Ale ($325 per 680ml bottle, No. 928051), both hail from the craft-brew paradise of Ontario.

Here's my beer wish for Canada Day: the Great Canadian Two-Four. Forget the railway, the Trans-Canada Highway and the Constitution; a cardboard carton containing 24 frosty ones drawn from all corners of this land will do more for interprovincial harmony.

Ideally it would include at least three brands from Quebec brewers such as La Québecoise ale or Logique organic beer from Brasserie Le Chaudron in Montreal. The box would include at least one of those extreme brews from a hippie producer in British Columbia, such as Crannog Ales' Back Hand of God Stout.

But I'm dreaming in Pride-flag Technicolor, of course. Mixing beers interprovincially would amount to a felony in Canada, I'm sure. Alcohol-trade restrictions between provinces are an international joke - not to mention a slap in the face of Confederation.

This brings me to wine, too. In a conversation last week with Jason Priestley, the Vancouver-born actor and wine buff, and Terry David Mulligan, a B.C.-based actor and broadcaster, they implored me to draw attention to internal trade restrictions on wine. The pair, visiting Niagara to tape an episode of their food-and-wine series Hollywood & Vines, complained that a non-Ontario resident, for example, can't buy wine directly from a Niagara winery and have it shipped back home by courier.

"People in Manitoba want Ontario wine, and they can't get it. What's going on?" Priestly said.

As a journalist, I can't, regrettably, start a petition or take up the cause in any active way. So, I'll just fan the flames of discord with the names of more wines Manitobans and others can't enjoy.

One of the stars of today's Vintages release in Ontario is Cave Spring Brut 2005 from Niagara ($29.95, No. 0049981). Lively and crisp, this dry champagne-style bubbly shows green apple and overtones of bread dough and smoke. Great winemaking from Angelo Pavan. (Ontarians can also order it from the winery, Cavespringcellars.com.) Also from Niagara and available through Vintages is the charming Château des Charmes Chardonnay Musqué 2006 ($16.95, No. 0640516). The "musque" here refers to a local variant of the chardonnay grape with an Alsatian-style aromatic quality.

From Quebec comes La Face Cachée de La Pomme Neige Ice Cider ($29.95/375 ml, No. 0039305). If you've not tried ice cider, Quebec's pomaceous answer to icewine, do yourself a favour. A small, chilled glass has fewer calories and more flavour than most apple pies. And this offering from La Face Cachée, one of several top producers, is excellent.

Another excellent Quebec brand, which shockingly is available in British Columbia and Ontario, is Domaine Pinnacle Ice Cider ($29.99 in B.C., No. 7674).

Moving on to other wines from today's Vintages release, the best price-quality proposition by far is the 2006 vintage of a seductive red I've babbled on about enthusiastically before, Altesino Rosso 2006 ($18.95, No. 0658369). This "baby" supertuscan blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot is medium full-bodied, soft and smooth, oozing flavours of cherry jam, raspberry and mushroom, and a juicy finish. The fruit really sings in this wine, which has been matured for just three months in French oak barrels. Earlier vintages are available in British Columbia for $21.99.

Another superb wine from Tuscany is Mate Mantus Merlo Sant'Antimo 2004 ($29.95, No. 0073502). This 15-per-cent-alcohol whopper is super-rich, with sweet plum, blackberry, violet and new leather on a rich, tannic frame. It should age nicely for four to six years.

From California, consider Matchbook Blockhouse 2004 ($20.95, No. 0066670), a nicely priced and unusual blend of syrah and tempranillo.

And here are the two best-buy whites of today's Vintages release: Vinterra Terra Viognier 2006 from Argentina ($12.95, No. 0057919), Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2007 from Spain ($12.95, No. 0129767). More expensive but worth it are the almost-sweet but hugely versatile Rabl Gruner Veltliner Vinum Optimum 2006 from Austria ($19.95, No. 0078642) and the refreshingly unoaked, brilliantly crisp and minerally Mer Soleil Silver Chardonnay 2006 from California ($41.95, No. 0066159).

Pick of the week

Altesino Rosso 2006 ($18.95, No. 0658369). This "baby" supertuscan blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot is medium full-bodied, soft and smooth, oozing flavours of cherry jam, raspberry and mushroom and a juicy finish.