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During a recent weekend in Paris, my husband and I sought out restaurants that were very fine but not Michelin starred. We wanted to go to bistros that were chef-owned and where the food was prepared with love and skill. The cutting-edge trend that I noticed was the return to simple homey dishes, full flavoured and rich but with reduced sauces, not cream. I also discovered a new lettuce I had not seen before called sucre, which looks a little like a mini romaine. It appeared as garnishes in two out of the three places we visited.

We ate at several excellent restaurants including Le Comptoir, which I have already written about. Since then Chef Yves Camdeborde has become a star and it is impossible to get a reservation. You must phone on the day you want to go after 4 p.m. and if there is space you may get it.

Another delightful restaurant with lots of buzz is Mon Vieil Ami, the brainchild of 3-star Strasbourg chef Anton Westermann whose protégé runs this intimate room. It is very chic, with lots of photographers and models among the clientele, and food that is rich and lusty, often served in oval cocottes, which are dishes used for both cooking and serving.

Another winner is Gaya Rive Gauche. Three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire has opened a casual fish restaurant where simple but sensational preparations leave you wishing for more. It recently acquired one star in the new Michelin for 2007.

Petals of Sea Bass

with Carmelized Fennel

This is based on a very easy Pierre Gagnaire recipe. It makes a lovely first or main course.

Caramelized fennel:

2 bulbs fennel

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

½ cup red wine

1 cup chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Fish:

1 500-gram piece European sea bass, skin on, or Alaskan black cod or salmon

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Sprinkle of smoked Spanish paprika

1 tablespoons butter

Cut fennel in quarters, remove core and slice quarters into thin strips. Bring a pot of water to boil and add fennel. Return to boil, boil 3 minutes and drain well.

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add fennel and sugar and sauté for 5-7 minutes or until slightly browned. Add 1 tablespoon balsamic, red wine and stock and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and cook another 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove cover and continue to cook until sauce is thick and syrupy and coats the fennel. Season with salt and pepper.

Slice sea bass into thin slices, removing them from the skin, by holding the knife at a 45-degree angle. Heat butter in a non-stick pan over medium heat. Add fish in a circle in slightly overlapping slices until the pan if filled. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and paprika. Cover pan and cook for 2 minutes or until fish is just cooked. Divide fennel on to four plates and top with fish. Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as an appetizer.Duck Breast with Celery Root,

Onions and Orange Sauce

This is my take on the rich duck dish I had at Mon Vieil Ami. You could use turnips instead of celery root.

1 celery root, peeled

6 shallots, peeled

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup red wine

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ cup orange juice

1 ½ teaspoon grated orange rind

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 ½ cups chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon butter

2 500-gram duck breasts

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 teaspoon coarsely cracked fennel seeds

1 teaspoon coarsely cracked peppercorns

2 tablespoon chopped chervil or parsley

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Cut celery root into ½-inch cubes. Cut shallots in quarters through the root.

Heat oil in an oven-proof casserole. Add celery root and shallots and sauté for about 4 minutes or until they start to brown slightly. Pour in wine, sugar, orange juice, orange rind and soy sauce, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or until flavours are absorbed. Add stock, turn heat to medium-low and simmer for 12 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Remove from heat and whisk in butter to finish sauce. Set aside.

Prepare duck while vegetables are simmering. Score duck skin into ½-inch stripes. Combine cinnamon, peppercorns and fennel seeds. Rub spice mixture over duck skin. Place duck, skin side down in a cold skillet over medium-low heat. Cook for 15 minutes, pouring off any fat that accumulates. When skin is crisp and brown, flip breast over and place in oven. Bake for 12 minutes or until medium rare. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Cut breast into slices and place in a Dutch oven with vegetables. Sprinkle with chervil. Serves 4.Roasted Apple with Crème Brûlée

A fabulous creamy baked apple. You may have extra custard.

Apples:

4 apples (preferably Royal Gala), cored

¼ cup butter, softened

2 tablespoons brown sugar

Crème brûlée:

1 cup whipping cream

3 egg yolks

¼ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons calvados (or ½ teaspoon vanilla)

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 F.

Slice the top off theapple.Remove flesh from inside apples with a melon baller, leaving ½-inch shell. Place apples on a baking sheet. Cut a slice from base of apples to help them sit upright.

Combine butter and brown sugar in a bowl and brush apples with mixture inside and out.

Place apples in individual ramekins or muffin tins. Bake apples for 20 to 25 minutes or until barely soft.

Heat cream in a pot over medium heat. Whisk together egg yolks and sugar then whisk in hot cream and calvados. Pour into apples and bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until barely set. Cool.

Sprinkle each top with about ½ teaspoon sugar. Place under broiler and broil until sugar browns, about 1 to 2 minutes. Makes 4 individual servings.

lwaverman@globeandmail.com