Regardless of how you feel about the provincial liquor monopolies, Canadian stores tend to be pretty diverse, geographically speaking, in their wine selection. That's because Canadians, more than any other citizens you can name, will buy any wine from anywhere so long as it's good. We are equal-opportunity drinkers. Foreign winemakers tell me this time and again.
The United States? Hardly. About three out of every four wines sold in America are made in - guess where? - America. U.S. auto executives might even agree to a temporary bonus cut for that kind of blind customer loyalty.
I mention this to underscore that one of my top picks today was up against plenty of competition when I last tasted it. Cave Spring Estate Riesling 2007 from Niagara ($17.95, product No. 286377) was lined up next to a panoply of about 90 wines from around the world, many of them very good, which are being released this morning through Ontario Vintages stores. Yet the Cave Spring was probably the best value in the room. Certainly it was the best white-wine value.
Don't expect easy-drinking gobs of fruit and oaky-vanilla sweetness from this delicate riesling. This is one of those brooding, intellectual elixirs that whispers rather than shouts. Close your eyes and for a second you might guess it to be from Germany. Classic Mosel Valley characters of ripe peach, kerosene (in a subtle but good way) and minerals dance on a thick, mouthcoating texture that remarkably manages to finish dry, with lively, balancing acidity. It's a great example from the great 2007 Niagara harvest and would be a good white choice for Easter turkey.
Also from today's release, in a bottle two-thirds the normal size, is Frogpond Farm Organic Riesling 2006 ($11.95 for 500 millilitres). Leaner than the Cave Spring, it still shows shades of that archetypal German style, with hints of mineral, petrol and lime. And, yes, it's made from organically grown grapes.
Readers in the West looking for a good domestic riesling to pour at Easter might want to check out Mission Hill Reserve Riesling 2007 ($18.99 in B.C., through http://www.missionhillwinery.com). Slightly sweeter and more fruit-forward in style, this off-dry white shows nuances of red apple, peach and citrus.
Back to the Vintages release, the other white not to be missed, assuming it's in your price bracket, is Calera Viognier 2006 ($26.95, No. 90217). Calera is one of the viognier leaders in California, a state where many grape varieties are tried but few succeed like this one from the northern Rhône valley. Like many California viogniers, it pushes the alcohol envelope, reaching 14.9 per cent, but it hides the heat well. Medium full-bodied, it's round and reminiscent of orange and pear, with a fresh, tangy finish. Like all the whites listed in today's column, it would be a fine choice for a big Easter feast.
Also from California comes Jocelyn Lonen Chardonnay 2006 ($39.95, No. 90076). It's on the expensive side, yes, but if you like your chardonnays smooth and buttery, this one fits the bill nicely. Full-bodied, with a nice tropical-fruit core, it follows through with considerable toasty oak.
For something more offbeat, albeit still expensive, consider Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 2007 ($37.95, No. 102962). A blend of local white varieties from the southern Rhône valley, it's full-bodied, with notes of peach, herb, honey and melon.
My top red pick of today's Ontario release is another huge value. But, again, don't expect gobs of fruit and tons of velvety, sweet oak. Bisceglia Terra di Vulcano Aglianico del Vulture 2006 ($14.95, No. 106302) is a lively rendition of the trendy aglianico grape native to southern Italy. Medium full-bodied and cleanly made, it exerts a tight little tannic grip on the palate, with flavours hinting at cherry, licorice and spice. It would be splendid with an antipasto platter of cold cuts.
Another good choice for that cold-cut platter would be La Vigna Vecchia Barbera d'Asti 2005 ($15.95, No. 106278), a medium-bodied, juicy Italian red that finishes with a kick of acidity.
Not cheap but splurge-worthy is Tenuta di Castelgiocondo Lamaione 2005 ($59.95, No. 978411), a "supertuscan" merlot from Marchesi de Frescobaldi. Full-bodied and opulent with blackberry-plum fruit, it's packed with chewy tannins that make it a good candidate for five to 10 years of cellaring.
And a very good buy from South Africa is Cathedral Cellar Pinotage 2005 ($16.95, No. 99267). Many pinotages can be rough going for the uninitiated, but this one is a borderline crowd pleaser, smooth and velvety and packed with flavours of sweet plum and berries, a hint of smoked meat and juicy acid on the finish.
*****
PICK OF THE WEEK
Bisceglia Terra di Vulcano
Aglianico del Vulture 2006 ($14.95, No. 106302) is a lively rendition of the trendy aglianico grape native to southern Italy.
