The Globe and Mail

We can never get enough of asparagus when it is local and full of flavour. I love thick stalks dripping with butter and dipped into an egg or stir-fried or roasted as an accompaniment.

When it's in season, in June, look for bright green stalks with tightly closed, compact tips; avoid limp, wilted stalks. If the tips are feathery or beginning to open, the asparagus is past its prime. When you get it home, store it in the refrigerator. If you'll be keeping the stalks for more than a day, however, wrap them in a damp paper towel. This will keep them fresh.

Asparagus stalks can be gritty, so it's a good idea to rinse them in cool water before using. Snap off the tough ends to remove the inedible woody part of the stalk (snapping it as opposed to cutting it detaches only the woody part and not any of the edible stalk).

Thicker stalks of asparagus need peeling before cooking. The outer skin is tough and woody; when it is removed, the asparagus will take less time to cook and have a more luscious texture. Peel it with a vegetable peeler up to the furled head. Choose stalks of similar size for even cooking.