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Blue-chip stalks you can count on

Stir fried shrimps and asparagus.

Stir fried shrimps and asparagus. Fernando Morales/The Globe and Mail

Three different ways to cook asparagus

Lucy Waverman

Lucy Waverman

We can never get enough of asparagus when it is local and full of flavour. I love thick stalks dripping with butter and dipped into an egg or stir-fried or roasted as an accompaniment.

This is the perfect time to buy asparagus, which will be around for the next month. Look for bright green stalks with tightly closed, compact tips; avoid limp, wilted stalks. If the tips are feathery or beginning to open, the asparagus is past its prime. When you get it home, store it in the refrigerator. If you'll be keeping the stalks for more than a day, however, wrap them in a damp paper towel. This will keep them fresh.

Asparagus stalks can be gritty, so it's a good idea to rinse them in cool water before using. Snap off the tough ends to remove the inedible woody part of the stalk (snapping it as opposed to cutting it detaches only the woody part and not any of the edible stalk). Thicker stalks of asparagus need peeling before cooking. The outer skin is tough and woody; when it is removed, the asparagus will take less time to cook and have a more luscious texture. Peel it with a vegetable peeler up to the furled head. Choose stalks of similar size for even cooking.

Here are three very different recipes for this versatile vegetable.

Asparagus with poached eggsThis recipe, with a sort of deconstructed hollandaise, is the ultimate asparagus experience. Dip the stalks into the eggs and the butter and savour the sensation. If you have any truffle salt, this is the place to use it.

Ingredients

2 pounds (1 kilogram) asparagus, peeled and blanched until crisp tender

8 poached eggs

1/4 cup melted butter

1 tablespoon chopped chives

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Truffle or Maldon salt

Method

Lay warm asparagus on 4 plates. Top with 2 poached eggs.

Pour butter over asparagus, sprinkle with chives and drizzle with lemon juice.

Season with truffle or Maldon salt. Serves 4.

Stir fried shrimp and asparagusUse a wok or a large non-stick skillet to prepare this dish. Always heat your wok before adding oil and stir-fry over high heat. Time is of the essence, so chop and measure everything beforehand.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon chopped ginger

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1/2 teaspoon sambal oelek or other hot sauce

1 pound (500 grams) asparagus, tough ends removed, cut into 2-inch lengths

1 pound (500 grams) shrimp, shelled

4 shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, quartered

3 green onions, cut into 2-inch lengths

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

¼ cup chicken stock

Method

Heat oil in a wok or large non-stick skillet over high heat. Add ginger, garlic and sambal oelek and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add asparagus and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add shrimp, mushrooms and green onions and cook until shrimp are pink (about 2 minutes).

Combine soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar and stock, add to wok and bring to boil, tossing to coat shrimp and veggies. Serves 4.

Cheese and asparagus tortaServe this beautiful, cheesy tart for lunch or brunch or as a first course for a dinner party. The parmesan crust is trouble-free and it can all be made a day ahead.

Ingredients

Crust:

1 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup finely grated parmesan cheese

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/3 cup unsalted cold butter, cut into cubes

1/4 cup cold water

Filling:

12 spears asparagus, tough ends removed

1 tablespoon olive oil

12 thin slices pancetta

1 cup mascarpone

2 egg yolks

2 eggs

1 cup grated provolone

1 cup grated asiago cheese

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Method

Combine flour, parmesan and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Drizzle in enough water so that pastry comes together in a smooth ball (you may need a bit more than a ½ cup). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Roll out pastry to fit a 9-inch tart pan, preferably with a removable bottom. Chill while you make filling.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Bring a skillet of water to boil over high heat. Add asparagus and blanch for 1 minute or until partly cooked. Drain and refresh under cold water. Cut asparagus in half. Reserve.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Fry pancetta slices until crisp (about 2 minutes per side). Reserve. In a bowl, whisk together mascarpone, egg yolks, eggs and mustard. Stir in provolone, asiago and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Place a layer of fried pancetta on top of crust. Spread egg and cheese mixture over top. Lay asparagus spears on top in a spoke pattern and press slightly into filling. Place tart pan on a metal baking sheet and bake on lower third of oven for 35 minutes or until filling is browned and puffed and pastry is golden. Serves 8.

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