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With winter approaching, I find myself craving the local delicacies on offer almost with anxiety: The farmers are preparing the soil for the long cold season ahead, and it is our last chance to enjoy the fruits of their labour.

Of the many finds in the markets today, nothing is more ubiquitous than squash, of course. And if you're like me, you are searching for something different to do with it.

Despite all the variety available, I know that people usually use this great-tasting vegetable simply for roasting or as a side dish. Or pureed squash soup, which is on many menus across the country (including my own), but which I must admit I find boring, no matter how you spice it up.

But I am here to tell you squash has many delicious uses. Some of my colleagues and friends love to prepare pumpkin cheesecakes, roasted spiced squash and stews with curry squash and coconut.

In my own repertoire are some of the most popular squash preparations: gnocchi (as fluffy as the potato one but a lot sweeter), squash ravioli with amaretti or mostarda, squash chips and fritters, and even jams and relishes. But my favourite is risotto.

My recipe for risotto with squash and black truffle is inspired by my childhood in Italy's Po Valley. There, the rich soil and the relative long growing season provides for great crops right until the beginning of winter, and the nearby hills are brimming with truffles and mushrooms. Squashes as well as pumpkins, which made their way to Europe from the Americas and found a particularly good growing season in Italy, are much anticipated as a fall specialty product.

There is no getting around the fact that risotto is a laborious food to prepare (when I was growing up it was reserved for the Sunday meal or restaurant visits). But this recipe can only be made at this time of year, so I urge you to try it.

Remember that risotto should be served as a starter, and is to be eaten in small quantities (generally, one handful of rice suffices for one person). I recommend using a heavy-bottom pan and clear light chicken (or vegetable) stock; the neutral stock will take on the taste of other ingredients better. Cut the ingredients into small pieces for better flavour distribution: Every forkful has to contain them all. And yes, risotto is eaten with a fork. Do not make it too runny (or too thick).

The best squash for this recipe is butternut, but Hubbard and buttercup would also be good. If Taleggio is not available for the fondue, try a young white cheddar.

Risotto with squash and black truffle and taleggio fonduta

Ingredients

• ½ cup medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 tablespoons of oil
• 2 cups butternut squash, diced ½-inch size or smaller1 pound of carnaroli rice
• 1 glass of white wine
• 8 cups of good chicken stock (or vegetable stock if preferred)
• 2 ounces of butter
• 4 tablespoons of parmigiano cheese, grated
• 2 tablespoons preserved black truffle, minced (or 40 grams of fresh truffle, shaved)

For the fonduta

• 2 ounces whole milk
• 6 ounces Taleggio cheese
• 1 teaspoon of flour
• 1 tablespoon parmigiano, grated
• 1 tablespoon of butter
• 2 egg yolks

Method

Sweat the onion in the oil until golden, using a heavy-bottom pot, add the squash and cook for a minute, add the rice and let toast a few minutes, then add the wine, let evaporate well and add enough stock to cover the rice by an inch.

Simmer gently, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking.

It will take about 18 minutes for this rice to cook. So with your timer in sight add stock as required until ready.

Risotto should be runny but creamy and not liquid.

When the rice is cooked, turn the fire off and add some butter, cheese and the truffle.

Whip well to incorporate air into it and to create a creamy consistency Stir well and serve.

For the fonduta

In a saucepan at medium heat melt the butter and then add the flour, stirring well to eliminate lumps. Add the milk and continue heating until it reaches the boiling point. Remove from heat and add the cheese. Whip it well to melt the cheese, and add the egg yolk to stabilize it. Keep warm and do not overheat.

Place a scoop of fonduta on the bottom of a flat plate and spread to the edge of the bowl. Place the risotto in the middle and shave more truffle on top. Serves 4.