Yet when cultivated to produce fewer, more concentrated bunches, the vine can yield delicious and complex wine. This is the case here. Full-bodied and weighing in at 14.5-per-cent alcohol, it's packed with ripe fruit, yet the intrigue comes from the savoury layers, hinting at lavender, fresh herbs and spice. A terrific pairing for braised or roasted meats.
Available in B.C. is the equally good Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($26.88, No. 322586).
And in Ontario, don't miss two excellent white buys from Chile: Casa Lapostolle Chardonnay 2008 ($14.95 in Ontario, No. 396986; $16.95 in Quebec, No. 10260711), full-bodied, buttery, ripe and balanced with fresh acidity; and Errazuriz Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($14.95, No. 143198).
Also part of today's Vintages release are two good affordable Bordeaux. Château d'Argadens 2005 ($16.95 in Ontario, No. 681643; $18.30 in Quebec, No. 10515876) is a Bordeaux Supérieur red from one of the better vineyard spots in the vast Entre-deux-Mers district. A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, it comes from the great 2005 vintage and is made by Maison Sichel, a family-owned negociant that also is invested in the distinguished Chateau Palmer. Medium-bodied, the wine shows good fruit focus, with a ripe cherry core, underpinned by pleasantly powdery tannins and subtle vanilla and oak notes.
I also was impressed with Dourthe La Grande Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc 2008 ($15.95 in Ontario, No. 159640; $16.99 in B.C., No. 264929; $14.90 in Quebec, No. 231654). Yes, it's from a big company, but this white shows more elegance than most sauvignon blancs from other regions, including California and New Zealand. Light-bodied and tangy, it is enticingly fresh.
I'll cover more of the current Vintages release in next Saturday's column.
Turning to British Columbia, I want to praise one of the biggest wines to emerge from the Land of Snow. Quails' Gate Old Vines Foch Reserve 2007 ($39.99 in B.C., Quailsgate.com) measures in at a (literally) stunning 15.5-per-cent alcohol, the product of intensely concentrated grapes from the sunny 2007 growing season. Made from 100-per-cent Maréchal Foch, it is a barbecue of hickory smoke and cured meat, set in a massive frame with a velvety, rich texture. Wild, rugged and elegant at the same time – a Canadian lumberjack in Prada fleece. What a beautiful, memorable, very Canadian red.
Picks of the week
The deal
Tabali Reserva Merlot 2006 ($14.95, product No. 93740) is full-bodied and smooth with succulent flavours of black currant, cherry and vanilla. It finishes with a dry grip thanks to nicely balanced tannins and acid.
The domestic
Measuring in at a stunning 15.5-per-cent alcohol, Quails' Gate Old Vines Foch Reserve 2007 ($39.99 in B.C., www.quailsgate.com) is the product of intensely concentrated grapes from the sunny 2007 growing season. It's a BBQ of hickory smoke and cured meat, set in a massive frame with a velvety, rich texture.
The splurge
Carmenere is a tough sell at $20, but Montes Alpha Carmenere 2007 ($19.95, No. 143230) is full-bodied and packed with ripe fruit. Added intrigue comes from the savoury layers, hinting at lavender, fresh herbs and spice.
To contribute to Red Cross efforts in Chile, follow these links. In English, contact www.redcross.ca and follow links to donate for Chilean relief; in French, contact www.croixrouge.ca and follow links to donate for Chilean relief. Or call 1-800-418-1111 in either language.
