There's something wonderful about transforming everyday ingredients into fantastic party treats.
My favourite is the ubiquitous green zucchini. Found in big-box grocery stores and markets year round, this squash truly shines by mid-summer. As a chef, I'm partial to the sweet, young version, whose delicate, creamy flesh lends itself well to raw and cooked dishes. I avoid the large, mature zucchinis that haunt the stalls at many markets. Their waterlogged, fibrous bodies and bitter seeds have much less utility and require significantly more effort to cook.
A member of the summer squash family, zucchinis share character traits with the knobby, saucer shaped patty pans and elegant crook-necked varieties. While low in calories, they are packed with important nutrients, such as vitamin C, vitamin A, magnesium and manganese. These nutrients are important for the prevention of cardiovascular disease and help combat inflammatory ailments. In addition, zucchinis are a good source of dietary fibre if the skin is eaten.
Chef David Lee prefers using young zucchini because it lends itself better to both raw and cooked dishes.
Zucchinis are actually the fruit of an edible female flower that grows on the long, tentacle-like branches of the squash plant. They grow in several bright colours and shapes during summer, each with its own subtle differences in flavour. While zucchinis are a fantastic ingredient to work with, many chefs also cook these sweet, delicate flowers as a great contrast.
This chilled summer soup uses both fruit and flower. It's a great treat to pass around at get-togethers or savour during a sit-down meal. I find it to be incredibly refreshing and filling.
When I make vegetable soups, I always use water as the base liquid. I feel that in many cases, vegetable stock tends to overwhelm or muddle the delicate flavours of the key ingredient. The secret to this recipe is to cook it as little as possible, until the zucchini is just barely tender, and then puree and chill immediately. This preserves the fresh, vibrant flavour and bright, green colour that echoes summer's vitality.
Zucchini season in Ontario usually lasts from May to July - so be sure to take advantage of this vegetable while it's around. If anything, it's a great excuse to have a party.
Chilled Ontario Zucchini Soup with Parmesan Fried Flower
Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, medium dice
1 clove of garlic, germ removed, sliced
1 pinch of chili flakes
1 sprig of rosemary, picked and rough chopped
6 green zucchinis, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut
into 1 cm wide slices
Salt to taste
Water
4 zucchini flowers, stamen or pistil removed
2-3 egg whites, whisked until frothy
1 cup fresh parmesan, finely grated
Vegetable oil for frying
Good quality olive oil for garnish
Method
In a large, heavy bottomed pot or rondeau, heat olive oil on medium heat. Once oil is hot, add onion and cook until aromatic and slightly translucent. Add garlic and cook for one minute more. Add chili flakes and rosemary and continue cooking until everything is softened.
Increase heat to high and add zucchini. Season well with salt. Cook on high until zucchini is warmed through and has a slight give to it, two to three minutes. Avoid burning garlic or chili. Add water until zucchini is barely covered, and bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer for three minutes or until zucchini is just tender. Immediately transfer zucchini and cooking liquid to a blender and blend in batches. Then, quickly transfer each batch to a large bowl set on an ice bath. Stir until completely cooled. Adjust seasoning with salt. (This soup can be made the night before and held in the fridge overnight.)
Dip flowers into frothy egg whites and quickly drain excess. Immediately transfer to parmesan and sift so flower is well covered. Pour vegetable oil in a heavy bottomed, high walled frying pan until it reaches a depth of 1.5 cm and heat on high. When oil is hot, but not smoking, add flowers to the pan. Make sure not to overcrowd the pan. Cook on each side until golden in colour. Once golden, remove from heat and allow to cool on paper towel
To serve, pour soup into chilled deep soup bowl. Garnish with one or two fried zucchini flower and drizzle with good quality olive oil. Serve immediately.
David Lee is co-owner of Nota Bene in Toronto
