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Sturdy Scotsmen may say that a tot of whisky with porridge is a pure dead-brilliant taste combination. But how's this for a real eye opener: a wee dram of Bowmore Darkest 15 Year Old coupled with spicy duck breast, mole poblano and creamy polenta?

A private roomful of guests at Vancouver's Elixir Bistro is about to find out if this is a match cooked in heaven or on the daftest stovetops of hell's kitchen. They're here for Whisky Wednesday, a monthly series of Scotch-pairing dinners where the king o' drinks holds court at the head of the table.

“Oh, my goodness,” Sean Gilhooly exclaims, savouring his first few bites with another sip of the raisiny single malt. The Vancouver wine blogger is shocked by how well the fattiness of the duck and thick spiced chocolate sauce work. “It really brings out the nuttiness of the Scotch and enhances the warmth at the finish.”

Now that cocktails, beer and sake have all been milked for novelty, it seems almost inevitable that single-malt Scotches should emerge as the latest food-pairing trend. From the Beaverbrook Art Gallery in Fredericton to Jamie Kennedy's kitchens in Toronto, adventurous epicureans are lining up for tasting events in which everything from cheese to oysters are used to tease out Scotch's vast array of sweet toffee, smoky mineral, spiced citrus, dried fruit and delicate floral notes.

“It's such a powerhouse drink,” says Elixir's executive chef Don Letendre, whose favourite food match in the series has been one of its most unusual – a dark-chocolate macaroon sandwiched with pear ganache and sliced foie gras.

LAURA LEYSHON FOR THE GLOBE AND MAIL

Scotch meets its match with a dark-chocolate macaroon.

“You need to use rich foods and bold flavours to cut through the strong alcohol. But once you start digging into the flavour profiles, it opens a huge door for matching and pairing.”

Tonight's Morrison Bowmore dinner is being co-hosted by Vancouver's HopScotch Festival, an annual celebration of Scotch, whisky and beer. It's one of five food-and-Scotch tasting events during the weeklong festivity, all of which sold out almost immediately.

Andrew Ferguson, the resident Scotch expert at Calgary's Kensington Wine Market who often organizes Scotch-pairing dinners at Buchanan's Chop House and Whisky Bar, isn't surprised by their growing popularity. “In Scotland, whisky would have traditionally been consumed with things like lamb and beef and cheese and oat cakes. Having [food and Scotch] together is only new from a Canadian perspective.”

The concept is similar to wine pairing, he says. “You're looking for foods that will complement or contrast.” But the depth and complexity of good whisky, he asserts, makes it even more versatile than vino.

“When pairing wine and food, you have to consider the grape type and the body of the wine. Wines tend to stay the same course. Whiskies pair easier because they have so many shades and characters. Every time you take a sip, something different is revealed.”

But how many sips can one drink and still remain sober by dessert? Even among Scotch aficionados, the notion of downing an entire meal with a stiff flight of whisky – a spirit that contains at least 40 per cent alcohol by volume – is a mind-numbing (and potentially taste-bud-paralyzing) proposition.

“A dining experience should leave you euphoric … not rip-roaring drunk,” Toronto celebrity chef Jamie Kennedy contends.

Though wine is his preferred food accompaniment, Mr. Kennedy isn't averse to Scotch pairings, in moderation. Last summer, he teamed up with Balvenie Distillery for a weekly tasting series at the Gardiner Museum. The outdoor cocktail-hour mixers featured three grazing stations at which guests nibbled on tapas-sized portions of spot prawn bisque, grilled oysters and seared duck liver on crispy pain d'épices , each paired with a complementary single-malt Scotch.

“It's fine for hors d'oeuvres,” Mr. Kennedy suggests. “That's its place, at the beginning or the end of a meal. I wouldn't think for a moment of pairing Scotch with roasted meat as a main course. That's the place of a red wine. Why ruin an amazing thing?”

Tasting notes

Ian Millar, global brand ambassador for Glenfiddich Single Malt Scotch Whisky

“Avoid spicy foods like wasabi. Anything that bites the tongue will exaggerate the burn. Good haggis is actually not a good match because good haggis is spicy.”

Favourite pairing: crème brûlée with Glenfiddich 21 Year Old.

Jamie Kennedy, executive chef of Gardiner Café and Gilead Café

“Lean towards rich foods that complement the tertiary flavours developed in the barrelling process or something in the same realm.”

Favourite pairing: crispy pain d'épices with seared duck liver and candied apple in cider with Balvenie Signature 12 Year Old.

Andrew Ferguson

President of the Calgary chapter of the Companions of the Quaich

“Chocolate and caramel desserts are great because whisky is full of big caramel and vanilla notes … chocolate is a flavour that you'll find in a lot of whiskies.”

Favourite pairing: grilled steak in a creamy peppercorn sauce with Brora 30 Years Old.

Special to The Globe and Mail