Adding eggplant to a Greek pastitsio gives the meat layer a lush texture.Tara O'Brady/The Globe and Mail
Casseroles are often maligned, but personally, I'm a fan. Consider that the category not only includes macaroni and cheese, but also tajines, biryanis, enchiladas and cassoulets. Such slow-baked wonders grant a general feeling of well-being in their eating, and in their making as well. They are advantageously predictable: You're often able to taste the components as you go, ensuring the sauce is well seasoned, and the long cooking time guarantees the meats are properly cooked. While your lasagne might be firmer on some days than others, it will still be gorgeous.
Greek pastitsio – a layered assemblage of pasta, darkly spiced meats cooked into a brawny filling, and a kefalotyri-and-egg enriched béchamel (cheese sauce) – takes time but the output of effort is minimal. After modest stirring, pouring and tamping down, the casserole is tucked into the oven and left to its own devices, while the cook is free to get things cleaned up before dinner. Even then, the work can be spread out; make the meat sauce one day, then make the béchamel and cook the pasta the next, and assemble even a few hours ahead of baking.
Traditional pastitsio does not include eggplant but mine does, as eggplant has an affinity for spice and its lush texture brings a softness to the meat filling that is otherwise missed. Chalky kefalotyri, a goat's milk cheese, brings a salty depth to the béchamel, but pecorino or Parmesan work as well. I like to offer the pastitsio with a fragrant herb salad alongside and a plate of olives on the table for picking.
Servings: 8 to 10
Filling
Butter for greasing a pan
2 globe eggplants, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch slices down their length
Olive oil, as needed
1 pound (450 g) ground lamb
1 pound (450 g) ground beef
Medium-grain kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper, as needed
2 medium onions, diced
1 celery rib, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup red wine
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
60 or so gratings of fresh nutmeg, or about 1/4 teaspoon preground
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
6 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 (28 ounce) can whole tomatoes
1/4 cup chopped fresh, flat-leafed parsley
Béchamel
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups milk, warmed
1/2 cup (approximately 50 g) grated kefalotyri, pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese
60 or so gratings of fresh nutmeg, or about 1/4 teaspoon preground
Medium-grain kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper, as needed
4 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
Assembly
1 pound bucatini, cooked quite al dente or about 2 minutes less than package instructions
1/2 cup (approximately 50 g) grated kefalotyri, pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese
Half a red onion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups mixed fresh tender herbs (parsley, cilantro, dill, mint)
Medium-grain kosher salt, and freshly ground black pepper, as needed
Method
Preheat an oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with butter.
Arrange the eggplant slices on baking sheets. Lightly brush slices with olive oil, then flip over and brush the second side. Bake in the hot oven until supple and lightly golden, about 30 minutes. Set the eggplant aside and raise the oven temperature to 375 F.
Make the filling. In a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, brown the ground meats. You might need a bit of olive oil to get things going, but don’t use much – fat will begin to render from the mince soon enough. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then continue to cook, breaking up the meats with the back of a wooden spoon and stirring often, until the mince is well browned, 12 to 15 minutes. When the meat begins to crackle, it’s ready. Stir in the onion and celery and cook for 5 minutes more. Add in the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Slosh in the red wine, and turn the heat down to medium, stirring constantly and dislodging any browned bits clinging to the pot, and cook until the wine has reduced by half. Chop half of the eggplant slices, and then scrape into the meat. Stir in the ground spices (cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, thyme and oregano) and stir for 30 seconds. Season lightly. Make some space at the bottom of the pot, then spoon in the tomato paste. Press the paste against the hot surface until it darkens, 1 to 2 minutes, then work it into the meat along with the tomatoes and their juice, breaking up the tomatoes as you do so. Bring everything to a boil then partially cover and knock the heat down to maintain a simmer for 10 minutes. At this point the meat can be left to bubble, stirred occasionally, while you prepare the cheese sauce. (If you haven’t already, this is a good time to cook the pasta. When ready, drain the pasta and return it to the pot in which it was cooked.)
To make the sauce, melt the butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring constantly, until the resulting paste bubbles and then begins to dry, about 2 minutes. In a slow, steady stream, whisk in the milk. Stir until the mixture comes to a boil and thickens. Then work in the cheese and nutmeg. Taste for seasoning – it should be slightly on the heavy side, as the eggs are still to be added. Pull the pot from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, check the meat filling for seasoning; it will need a good amount. Stir in the chopped parsley.
Pour 1/4 of the cheese sauce over the pasta in its pot, or in a large bowl. Beat the eggs and baking powder together in a medium bowl. Vigorously stir 1 cup of the sauce into the eggs to warm them up, then pour the egg mixture into the rest of the sauce.
Layer half the pasta in the prepared dish. Cover with the meat filling, then lay a mosaic of the remaining eggplant slices on top, and finish with the second half of the pasta. Pour the sauce over all. Strew with grated cheese and bake in the hot oven until the edges of the pastitsio are bubbling and the topping is well browned, 40 minutes or so. Let stand for 15 minutes before slicing. While the pastitsio cools, combine the vinegar and onions in a bowl and set aside for a few minutes. Stir the herbs through the vinegar and onions, and season with salt and pepper, then serve with the casserole right away.
Notes
Pastitsio macaroni (available in Greek grocers), elbow macaroni, rigatoni or penne can be used for the pasta.
To make the meat filling ahead of time, let it simmer for 20 to 30 minutes after the tomatoes are added, then cool, cover and refrigerate overnight. Rewarm over low heat before using.
The pastitsio can be assembled and baked the day before it’s needed. Once cool, cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate. Reheat, still covered, in a 350 F oven until hot all the way through, about 45 minutes.