Sous-vide, the French term for “under vacuum,” is the process of cooking vacuum-packed food, in a low-temperature water bath for long periods of time. It’s the high-tech equivalent of the traditional “low and slow” philosophy, and it has become the de rigueur technique of gadget-loving foodies and elite chefs alike. For instance, chef Heston Blumenthal was both early and enthusiastic adopter of the expensive scientific equipment and Thomas Keller famously sous-vides lobster tails in a bath of five kilos of emulsified butter heated to 59.5 C for 15 minutes.
Sous-vide machines (in technical parlance, thermal immersion circulators) maintain temperatures to within one-tenth of a degree, such that a rib-eye, for example, is warmed– “cooked” just seems too violent a word to describe the spa-like pampering of this method – to the precise temperature at which it’s served, and can be maintained at that ideal point without sacrificing texture for at least 20 minutes, hours even for braising cuts. It’s then caramelized briefly in a hot pan or by using a crème brûlée torch.
The science behind it requires a complex understanding of the chemical structure of proteins and other matter and their reaction to heat. Appreciating the juiciness of a sous-vide hamburger cooked for 30 minutes, however, requires only hunger.
With such big-name boosters (and the fact the gadget produces such high-quality results with minimal effort) meant the introduction of sous-vide units for the home cook was inevitable. The first machine to market was the SousVide Supreme in November 2009. Its competition is the PolyScience Sous-Vide Professional, from the scientific device manufacturer whose lab equipment fuelled this craze in the first place.
Both circulators produce superb meat and vegetable dishes with unbelievable ease. After cooking with both for months, choosing between them for me boils (or at least gently heats) down to ranking competing priorities: price or size. Here’s how they stack up.
Price
SVS: $449(U.S.) ($445) from www.sousvidesupreme.com
PSP: $875 (Cdn) plus taxes and shipping from www.testek.ca; $1199.95 at Williams Sonoma
Size
SVS: The self-contained machine is about the size of a small microwave – it’sa storage headache.
PSP: Thehandy clip-on device, only slightly larger than a bottle of wine, can be attached to any heatproof container. It tucks into any cupboard.
Ease of use
SVS: Display includes timer, and covered unit doesn’t require water refills for extended cooking. I needed to read the manual to achieve optimal results.
PSP: Easy-to-read display lacks timing function, and occasional water refills are necessary for two- and three-day preparations. Intuitive interface makes this circulator no tougher to use than any other small appliance.
Intangibles
SVS: Sealed unit makes for completely silent operation but lower capacity. Temperature fluctuations of more than .1 degrees Fahrenheit occured frequently during evaluation.
PSP: Maintains temperatures to one-tenth of a degree with ease, but the constant sound of circulating water can be intrusive.
Foodies eager to try sous-vide at home, can’t go wrong either way. But for me, the smaller size of the Polyscience Professional wins out over the smaller price of the SousVide Supreme.
