Exultet Estates
Gerry and Lia Spinosa, who christened their winery with the Latin term referring to a hymn of praise, made just 500 cases last year from this cute little former cheese factory. But the lilliputian size stands in inverse proportion to Gerry’s obsessive standards. He bottles only grapes he has personally tended, all within virtual slingshot range of the cellar. The former medical researcher loaded up his Toronto family in 2004 and aimed the car eastward. His first white recently captured gold at the Ontario Wine Awards, prompting him to raise the price to $49.95 from $35. His flagship 2009 pinot noir, called The Beloved, is spicy, sublime and already half gone at $65. “There isn’t a chef or sommelier who leaves here without buying a bottle,” he says. 613-476-1052, www.exultet.ca.
Rosehall Run
Rosehall makes some of the best-value wines in the County. Dan Sullivan, who started as a “basement amateur” in Toronto, began planting in 2001. His laid-back demeanour belies a profound grasp of vineyard biology and a connoisseur’s palate. His 2010 syrah, still maturing in barrel, has the concentration and peppery zing of a St. Joseph from France’s Rhône Valley. And the 2009 Cuvee County Chardonnay is a bargain at $22. “Nobody ever says Rosehall Run’s wines aren’t worth the money,” Mr. Sullivan says. “And I don’t ever want to hear that.” 1-888-399-1183, www.rosehallrun.com.
Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard
Mr. Hardie has been a one-man publicity supernova for the County. His first, acclaimed, wines, starting with the 2004 vintage, were based mainly on Niagara fruit, though. While he still sources about 30 per cent of his grapes from the peninsula, including a Niagara-Prince Edward County blended pinot priced at $69, his County-specific wines have met with growing praise, especially from fans of his Burgundian-style chardonnays. The small dining patio, serving pizzas from an outdoor oven, is an ideal spot to savour the food-friendly wines. 613-399-5297, www.normanhardie.com.
The Old Third Vineyard
Before Closson Road was renamed, it went by another moniker. “When we moved here, our neighbours left a note on our door saying, ‘Welcome to The Old Third,’ ” recalls co-owner Bruno Francois, the Toronto-raised son of French immigrants. With partner Jens Korberg, he has brought the past back to life in another way, restoring an 1870s horse barn with design details worthy of Architectural Digest. Billowing white curtains make for an arresting contrast with the weathered wood, a conspicuous clue that the horse has indeed left this barn. The only wine made here, a $35 pinot noir, is excellent. 613-399-2554, www.theoldthird.com.
Huff Estates
Lanny Huff, a chemical engineer and County native, erected the region’s most imposing and ambitious winery, complete with a modern-styled inn. But his wisest business decision was to hire Parisian-born, Burgundy-trained Frédéric Picard. With charm and good looks to match his formidable talent, Mr. Picard worked at vineyards around the world before settling in Canada 10 years ago. He was the first to produce a County sparkling wine. “I love Champagne,” he says. “That’s my favourite wine.” The South Bay Chardonnay also is a County benchmark and reasonably priced at $29.95. A contrarian among his peers, he believes early ripening pinot gris holds more promise for the region than pinot noir. And he decries the opportunistic push for trophy-wine prices by some of his neighbours. “You go to the LCBO and you can buy a decent Burgundy, a Santenay, for $22,” he says. 613-393-5802, www.huffestates.com.
Other highlights
The Grange of Prince Edward (for the sparkling wine and historic 1826 barn) and 3630 Wine (for the chardonnay, sparkling wine and superb, oak-aged sauvignon blanc sourced from Niagara; available for purchase via e-mail at 3630wine@gmail.com).
Editor's note: An earlier version of this story had an incorrect address for 3630 Wine. It has been changed.
