For the latter half of the past decade, California wine seemed like the potable equivalent of another California treasure, Apple Computer Inc., in the pre-iPod 1990s. Smugly overpriced, it jarred against the competitive landscape. Or, so many Canadian consumers began to think. Emerging value zones, such as Argentina and South Africa, courted us with their more affordable offerings, much the way Dell entrenched its position in the computer world.
It didn’t help that the U.S. dollar was kicking the loonie’s butt, driving up import prices here. But California producers shared the blame for restricting exports of some of their best brands, causing a supply crunch that enabled them to pump up Canadian prices – for a while.
Then two things happened. A rising loonie bolstered Canadian buying power and drove prices down, while the deep U.S. recession delivered a much-needed dose of humility to cocksure Californians. To compensate for sluggish demand in their domestic market, producers loosened their grip on exports and began doing the unthinkable: dropping prices. Caymus Conundrum, an iconic premium white, now sells for $23.95 in Ontario after hovering for years in the mid-$30s. Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, which had sold for about $45, now costs $34.95.
The upshot: California is enjoying a banner year in Canada. Sales by volume were up 11 per cent from January to August this year (the latest period for which figures are available) compared with the same period last year. That’s robust growth even given the general economic recovery in wine sales in Canada. Italian wine, for example, advanced just 5 per cent.
Leading the charge has been Quebec, where California wine volume was up 27 per cent, led by two red-hot brands, Liberty School and Ménage à Trois, says Rick Slomka, Canadian director of the California Wine Institute, a trade association. Slomka speculates that younger Quebec drinkers contributed to the rise by breaking with tradition in a market that historically favoured European wines. “Their parents drank Burgundy and Bordeaux and they want to make their mark with something different,” he told me. Alberta posted the second-highest growth gains, up 10 per cent in the January-to-August period.
At Ontario Vintages stores, the Liquor Control Board of Ontario’s specialty products boutiques, sales by dollar value for premium California wines were up 19 per cent in the January-August period. And California has now surpassed France and Italy in dollar value of premium and super premium still wines (not including Champagne) at Vintages.
The numbers should look even better after today’s Vintages spotlight on California.
Roederer Estate Brut Sparkling Wine (California)
SCORE: 91
Price: $28.95 in Ont.; $28 in Que.
From the California property of the French Champagne house famous for $300-a-bottle Cristal, this dry bubbly comes about as close to Champagne as you’ll find for under $30. A chardonnay-pinot noir blend, it’s like a baker’s kitchen in the autumn, with flavours of fresh-baked bread and apple pie, enlivened by spice and crisp acidity.
Roederer Estate Brut Rosé (California)
SCORE: 90
Price: $34.95 in Ont.
The pink sister to the wine above, with a seductively light, coppery-salmon hue. Silky yet crisp on the finish, brimming with berries, orange and a hint of minerals.
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2007 (California)
SCORE: 91
Price: $53.95 in Ont.
Full-bodied but tightly knit, with up-front flavours of smoke, mineral and stone, firmed up by spice and acidity. Another excellent effort from one of Napa Valley’s best chardonnay producers. Good for roast chicken or pork, especially with a side of roasted, buttered squash.
Ampelos Lambda Pinot Noir 2006 (California)
SCORE: 91
Price: $33.95 in Ont.
A big, ripe pinot from the Santa Rita Hills in central California, with 14.4-per-cent alcohol, but remarkably lively and balanced. Rich cherry and blueberry flavours become juicy on the finish thanks to a good acid backbone, with more balance coming from notes of spice and herbs. Try it with roast pork or seared duck breast.
Stags’ Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (California)
SCORE: 90
Price: $49.95
Full-bodied and subtly complex, with a core of plum, cassis and chocolate against a backdrop of earth and mineral, finishing with sweet, chalky tannins. Decant it if you can and try with steak, or cellar for up to 12 years.
Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler Riesling Kabinettt 2008 (Germany)
SCORE: 90
Price: $16.95 in Ont.
Drippy, sweet apricot fruit gets a lift from zippy acidity in this medium-dry Mosel charmer, with nuances of petrol and slate on the lip-smacking finish. Great value and a good, sophisticated aperitif to kick start a dinner party.
Alain Geoffroy Beauroy Chablis 2007 (France)
SCORE: 90
Price: $24.95 in Ont.
Medium-bodied and more evolved than one might expect from a 2007, this crisp, premier-cru chardonnay leads off with a slightly oxidized, Sherry-like tang supported by a fleshy lemon-and-melon flavours and hint of minerals. Perfect for oysters.
Château de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel white (France)
SCORE: 92
Price: $33.95
A southern Rhône blend of marsanne, viognier, bourboulenc and clairette, this medium full-bodied white delivers plump orange- and guava-like fruit accented by herbs and spice and a long, harmonious finish. Versatile at the table and an especially fine option for the cheese course.
Château de Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel red 2008 (France)
SCORE: 90
Price: $29.95 in Ont.
The baby brother to Beaucastel’s esteemed and much more expensive Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this Côtes du Rhône is full-bodied and deftly balanced with ripe dark-skinned fruit, silky texture and spice rising through the long, succulent finish. Try it with braised beef or lamb shanks.
Terres d’Avignon Reserve des Armoiries Eleve en Fut de Chene 2007 (France)
SCORE: 90
Price: $15 in Ont.
A bargain. Medium full-bodied with a core of ripe fruit, this red Côtes du Rhône unfolds with nuances of cedar, sweet herbs and licorice. Like the wine above, it would pair nicely with braised red meats.
