Here’s a big-bodied red that comes by its size without benefit (or need) of oak-barrel aging. It’s bone-dry, with ripe fruit, but the starring role goes to an earthy essence that puts me in mind of a dirt road – in a good way. There are herbs and smoked rubber on that road, too, along with well-integrated tannins. Try it with hearty red-meat dishes, especially stews. Available in Ontario.