I have an indelible memory of Muskoka, the gorgeous lake country two hours north of Toronto. I was a kid paddling my canoe when I chanced upon a familiar figure in the distance. The man was standing up precariously in a canoe, attempting to net a butterfly. I paddled closer for a positive ID and inadvertently disrupted a film shoot. It was Terry David Mulligan, the actor and broadcaster, taping one of those dozens of humorous Molson Golden commercials that helped launch the careers of several of his famous Canadian friends, including John Candy and Dan Aykroyd. This beer, from a craft brewery founded in Bracebridge, Ont., in 1996, is a testament to how far the suds market in Canada has come since the Golden era of the 1960s and 1970s. Coppery amber in colour and sporting 6.4-per-cent alcohol, it’s full-flavoured and strongly aromatic, with fine effervescence, citrusy fruit and robust bitterness thanks to a strong dose of Chinook and Centennial hops. It’s a fine North American-style India pale ale, the perfect quaff for a crisp autumn evening.