Bitterness has never been a strong suit of big-brand domestic brews. The giants assume, or perhaps know, that most Canadians want their beer cold and smooth and, well, just that. This new offering from Molson is not a major departure, but it does deliver more of a hoppy – or bitter – quality than the rest of the Rickard’s lineup. Billed as a German-style pilsner, it’s clear, golden and refreshingly clean, with traces of citrus and licorice and a little kick of un-Canadian bitterness on the finish. Kudos to Molson for pushing the envelope, however modestly.