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Don Sebastiani & Sons, the big California producer, named one of its premium-wine lines Aquinas after St. Thomas Aquinas, the legendary 13-century Catholic theologian and philosopher. I'm not sure why, but it sure beats putting a kangaroo on a label when you want to telegraph gravitas. This is fine pinot at a good price, round and smooth, with plenty of vanilla and the sort of unapologetically jammy fruit one would expect from sunny Napa Valley. Perfect for rare duck breast. Available in Ontario.

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