There is more than a whisper of Champagne finesse to Blue Mountain’s sparkling wines. One reason has to do with Raphaël Brisbois, the former winemaker at famed French house Piper-Heidsieck, brought on board in the early days to help craft the wines. Back then, you pretty much had to be on an exclusive mailing list to find this superlative B.C. bubbly. Now, it’s available in Ontario as well as in stores in the West. It shows tart green apple, light toastiness and great depth of flavour, with high-tension acidity. $23.90 in B.C., bluemountainwinery.com.