The Globe and Mail

Bock is a German-style strong lager. The doppel – or “double” – designation signifies an even stronger version. This one, from the excellent Cameron’s Brewing of Oakville, Ont., measures 7.1-per-cent alcohol, still tame for a doppelbock (some German whoppers run as high as 12 per cent). Many producers like to give their doppels proprietary names ending in “ator,” as in Deviator, which evokes the original name of Salvator, or “Saviour,” that Munich monks originally gave to the malty “liquid bread” style of beer they created to sustain their mortal flesh during solid-food fasting periods. (Those crafty men of the cloth.) This one is dark amber, almost ebony, in colour, with a chocolatey, toffee-caramel richness, creamy texture, moderate effervescence and lingering sweetness that’s matched by a subtle, sour-bread-like quality. Perfect on its own on a cold evening or with a selection of cheeses.