Good red Bordeaux is not exactly synonymous with value. But there are decent buys to be had from lesser appellations, such as Blaye, especially from the fine 2009 harvest. Maison Neuve’s 2009 displays impressive concentration, with a classic cassis core, a nuance of pencil shavings and dusty, dry tannins. Cellar it for up to five years or serve it now with medium-rare beef or lamb.
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