The big producer Delas has cranked up quality in recent years, and this northern Rhône syrah-based red shows admirable balance for an appellation with variable quality. It’s medium full-bodied, with fresh fruit scented with lavender and white pepper. The tannins are moderately astringent and will soften with two or three years in the cellar. $24.99 in B.C., $22.15 in Quebec.