This is crafted by Alain Jaume & Fils, one of Lirac's best producers and also a maker of expensive Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Elegance trumps power here, though the berry-like fruit is rich and ripe. Rhône fans will be impressed with the classic savoury essence, suggesting lavender, flowers and licorice. Fragrant and fresh, it even hints at an aroma of pine forest. It should cellar well for five to eight years.