Ribolla gialla enjoyed a storied past in northeast Italy and Slovenia. The 14thcentury poet Giovanni Boccaccio listed it, unflatteringly, with vernaccia and malvasia among the “costly wines” of gluttonous excess. (He also mentioned prosaic trebbiano in the same context, so what did he know, in the end?) After a century of decline to obscurity, it’s on the rise again. This one hints at muscat-like perfume, with lively underripe peach acquiring vanilla and nuttiness from a light touch of oak. Splendid on its own or with light seafood. Available in Ontario.